Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Where Star Chefs Go Casual
163
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Back in the Game
Paris, France
Joël Robuchon said he was done—after
being hailed as the greatest chef in France
(the Gault-Millau guide even named him
“chef of the century” in 1989), he stunned
the culinary world in 1996 by announcing
he was hanging up his toque and packing
away his knives for good. But once a chef
always a chef, and eventually in 2003
Robuchon found himself back in the game,
though in a different sort of place entirely.
In the swanky 7th arrondissement,
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon is like a chef's
table on steroids: 36 seats are pulled up to
a bar-style countertop that surrounds an
open-to-view kitchen. To say that this is
more casual than the haute restaurants
where Robuchon made his name is not to
say it's cheap or laid back. Instead of
rococo glitz, you have an angular contem-
porary look with veneered woods, red
leather, flat gray walls, stainless steel, and
pools of downlighting. The dishes come in
small tapas-like portions, but they still
show a high degree of innovation and
finesse. You might start with
foie gras en
torchon
or eggplant confit in mille-feuille
pastry, or morsels of spring lamb, pigeon,
or suckling pig; there's even a pig's foot on
a Parmesan tartine. Among the sublime
main courses are caramelized quail glazed
with shallot-perfumed sauce; buttery, ten-
der langoustines in pastry; hanger steak
with fries; or beef tournedos with black
Malabar pepper. Duckling comes roasted,
braised, and flavored with spices such as
ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon—and of
course, Robuchon still makes the most
divine mashed potatoes on the planet.
Desserts include luscious things like a
Chartreuse soufflé, coffee mousse flecked
with crumbs of brownie, and chocolate
“Sensation.” Reservations are accepted
for three seatings a day, at the very un-
French hours of 11:30am, 2pm, and
6:30pm.
Once he was back in the game, Robu-
chon ended up franchising the L'Atelier
concept all over the world—Hong Kong,
Las Vegas, London, New York, Tokyo—as
well as fine-dining restaurants in Monaco
and Macao. At the moment his restaurants
can claim a collective 17 Michelin stars,
making his the most Michelin-honored res-
taurant empire in the world. He's like a
culinary juggernaut that can't be stopped.
But then, with food this good, who would
want to stop him?
5-7 rue de Montalembert, 7e (
&
33/
1/42-22-56-56;
www.joel-robuchon.com).
(
De Gaulle (23km/14 miles); Orly (14km/
8
2
/
3
miles).
L
$$$
Hôtel Luxembourg Parc,
42 rue de Vaugirard, 6e (
&
33/1/53-10-
36-50;
www.luxembourg-paris-hotel.
com). $$
Hôtel Saintonge,
16 rue Sain-
tonge, 3e (
&
33/1/42-77-91-13;
www.
saintongemarais.com).
