Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
with Island Creek oysters), “tongue in
cheek” (a sliced round of braised lamb
tongue and tender beef cheeks), and
“macaroni and cheese” (butter-poached
Maine lobster with creamy lobster broth
and orzo with mascarpone cheese), as
well as the wafer cone filled with salmon
tartare that opens every meal.
The dining room has a romantic country
inn look, with cream-colored wainscoting,
wallpapers in muted sage and mustard
tones, softly pleated table linens, fresh
flowers everywhere, and French Empire
chairs upholstered in deep royal blue. A
meal here is expected to take hours—
consider it dining as theater, with many
courses finished table side, and laid in
front of you on unique plates designed to
show off each highly wrought portion.
Your waiter becomes an usher, then an
actor, and eventually your best friend for
the duration of the meal.
Keller has branched out, opening
two more casual outposts in Yountville
( Bouchon, 6534 Washington St.; & 707/
944-8037; and Ad Hoc, 6476 Washington
St.; & 707/944-2487 ) and in New York,
their upscale urban sister Per Se (10
Columbus Circle; & 212/823-9335 ). But
only The French Laundry is The French
Laundry, and you have to give Keller
credit—he's never tried to clone it. Reser-
vations are accepted 2 months in advance
of the date, starting at 10am California
time. Get ready to hit the redial button.
6640 Washington St. ( & 707/944-
2380; www.frenchlaundry.com).
( San Francisco International (68 miles/
109km).
L $$$ Napa River Inn, 500 Main St.,
Napa ( & 877/251-8500 or 707/251-8500;
www.napariverinn.com). $$$ Yountville
Inn, 6462 Washington St., Yountville
( & 707/944-5600; www.yountvilleinn.com).
Chef's Tables
142
Charlie Trotter's
A Ringside Seat
Chicago, Illinois
In a world of superstar chefs who are for-
ever shuttling back and forth between one
high-profile side project and another,
Charlie Trotter seems almost quaintly
devoted to the high-end Chicago restau-
rant where he made his name. Yes, he has
capitalized on his celebrity by doing TV
shows and cookbooks (with almost impos-
sible-to-follow recipes), and he has finally
opened branches in Las Vegas and Los
Cabos. The gourmet takeout shop in Lin-
coln Park, Trotter's To Go, was almost a
no-brainer. Still, the place where you'll
generally find Trotter is at this 20-year-old
restaurant, which has won just about
every honor the culinary world bestows.
Though Trotter's culinary style can be
described as American food with French
techniques and Asian influences, it's much
more original than that would imply. Trot-
ter doesn't believe in sauces loaded with
butter and cream; he does believe in
organic and free-range ingredients, which
he feels have more vivid flavors than con-
ventionally produced foods. And in gen-
eral, he seems to get a kick out of surprising
diners with new ingredients and arresting
presentations. He offers just two options—
a vegetable tasting menu and a grand
tasting menu—so that he can lead folks
through a carefully calibrated succession
of flavors. They change daily, but sample
 
Search WWH ::




Custom Search