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In this spare setting, Chef Fergus Henderson gets to the heart, liver, feet, and tail of the matter.
L $$$ Covent Garden Hotel, 10 Mon-
and side dishes (anchovy toast, Welsh
rarebit) from the dining room menu.
mouth St., Covent Garden ( & 800/553-
6674 in the U.S., or 44/20/7806-1000;
www.firmdale.com). $$ B + B Belgravia,
64-66 Ebury St., Belgravia ( & 800/682-
7808 in the U.S., or 44/20/7734-2353;
www.bb-belgravia.com).
26 St. John St. ( & 44/20/7251-0848;
www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk).
( Heathrow (24km/15 miles) or Gatwick
(40km/25 miles).
Cutting-Edge Kitchens
129
Amador
Kitchen Magician
Langen, Germany
You'd hardly expect to find such an accom-
plished restaurant in a small town just
south of Frankfurt. And judging from that
half-timbered 18th-century exterior, you
wouldn't expect it to serve such dazzlingly
modern food, exquisite tiny sculptures of
foam, ice, smoke, and edible lace. But then
you might think that Amador—with that
Spanish name—must be another Adrià
acolyte from Catalonia. Yet even there your
expectations would be turned around.
Chef-owner Juan Amador was born and
raised in Germany (although his parents
were Spanish) and trained in German res-
taurants, including Albert Bouley's much-
admired Hotel Waldhorn in Ravensburg.
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