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More often than not, this was dinner on the train. And honestly, I began to crave it. Boxes of instant noodles were on
sale at every train station for as little as twenty rubles (sixty-seven cents) each. We kept a good supply at all times, so
when hunger hit, you could carry the noodles and your tea cup to the hot water samovar at the end of each train car, fill
up, and your meal was ready.
Walking on water: Lake Baikal freezes solid during winters, and Russians love to tempt fate by driving, biking, and tak-
ing strolls on the ice. Sergei and I opted for a hovercraft.
I wondered whether this would be the last photo ever taken of me and Sergei alive. To cross frozen Lake Baikal, we
hired a hovercraft that seemed, shall we say, makeshift. It resembled a minivan superglued on top of a pontoon with a
steering wheel inside that was surely ripped off a Russian Lada automobile.
Sergei Sotnikov: proud husband and father, NPR producer, awesome travel mate, best friend in Russia.
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