Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SIGNS OF THE TIMES
Don't get ruffled if you can't find signs for the 'official' Ruta Panorámica - signs are
often obscured or moved by local business owners hoping to lure traffic.
Jayuya
Puerto Rico's unheralded mountain 'capital' lies a few kilometers north of the Ruta Pan-
orámica in an isolated steep-sided valley overlooked by three of the island's highest peaks
- Cerro de Punta, Cerro Tres Picachos and Cerro Maravilla. Fiercely traditional and verd-
antly beautiful, the precipitous geography in this region has protected many of the island's
traditions. If you're on a mission to find Puerto Rico's last authentic
jíbaro
(country per-
son), this is a good place to start.
Steeped in Taíno legend, the original settlement of Jayuya had little contact with the
rest of the island until 1911, when it was declared a municipality. In 1950 local nationalist
leader Blanca Canales led a revolt against US occupation known as the 'Jayuya Uprising.'
Rebels sacked the police station, torched the post office and declared a Puerto Rican Re-
public from the town square. The rebellion lasted just three days before US planes bombed
the town, causing widespread destruction. Still, today, Jayuya is one of the island's most
un-Americanized towns.
Efforts to keep Taíno culture alive include a festival of music, food, games and a Miss
Taíno pageant.
Sights
Jayuya is the heart of coffee country, making a visit to one of the outlying plantations re-
quisite.
Hacienda San Pedro
COFFEE FARM
( 615-3083;
www.cafehsp.com
;Rte144Km8.4; 8am-6pmMon-Sat,10am-5pm
Sun)
San Pedro is a small, working coffee farm with an attached museum and tasting room
where you can get a fascinating tour of the whole coffee-making process from green bean
