Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Reserva Forestal Toro Negro
Covering 7000 acres and protecting some of Puerto Rico's highest peaks, the Toro Negro
Reserve provides a quieter, less-developed alternative to El Yunque. Bisected by some of
the steepest and windiest sections of the Ruta Panorámica (Hwy 143 in this section), the
area is often shrouded in mist and blanketed by dense jungle foliage. This is where you
come to truly escape the tourist throngs of the coast. But don't expect El Yunque's polish.
Toro Negro's ragged facilities - which comprise a campground, a few trails and a recre-
ation area - are spartan and poorly staffed and the signs are rough. Rather than just turning
up, it's far better to plan ahead and enquire about current conditions at the DRNA in San
Juan, as mudslides are common. Properly prepared and with a decent topo map, you should
be able to carve out some memorable DIY adventures in the mountains. Those who want
an organized trip can go with an organized tour.
Cerro de Punta, at 4389ft, is the tallest point in the reserve and Puerto Rico's highest
peak. You can drive most of the way to the top on the Ruta Panorámica or, alternatively,
attempt to bushwhack your way up from Jayuya on an infuriatingly unkempt (and vague)
trail. Other notable peaks include Monte Jayuya and Cerro Maravilla, where two pro-inde-
pendence activists were notoriously shot by Puerto Rican police in 1978.
Sights & Activities
Cerro de Punta
MOUNTAIN PEAK
Rising to 4389ft, the summit of Cerro de Punta lies in the Toro Negro Forest Reserve just
off Hwy 143 (the Ruta Panorámica). Most people drive to the top. Although there's a nar-
row unmarked, fairly treacherous cement road to the peak itself, it's better to stop in a park-
ing lot on the northern side of Hwy 143 and take the last 1.5 miles by foot, soaking up the
sights and sounds of the surrounding jungle. Not surprisingly, the road can be treacherous
in bad weather. The summit is crowned by communication towers, though the view north
is stupendous - clouds permitting. Cerro de Punta lies in the west of the reserve, almost 10
miles of tortured driving from the Area Recreativa Doña Juana.
The challenge for hikers has nothing to do with the difficulty of the terrain: the absence
of marked trails underscores Puerto Rico's disinterest in the activity. Before committing
to a hike, understand that you'll waste a lot of time looking for trailheads. Theoretically,
a trail leaves from behind the Hacienda Gripiñas, close to the town of Jayuya. If you find
it, good luck following it; it is badly signposted and in a poor state of repair. Locals are of
little help here - since hiking is so uncommon, most don't know anything about the trail. If
