Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Whiff the aroma of homegrown Puerto Rican coffee in Hacienda San Pedro
( Click here )
Bushwhack your way up an overgrown trail in the Reserva Forestal Toro Negro
( Click here )
History
Legend has it, native Taíno survived here until the mid-19th century and, even today, Indian
traditions run strong in the festivals and artisan workshops scattered along the Ruta Pan-
orámica. In more recent times, notoriety has struck these mountains twice. In 1950 an un-
successful uprising in Jayuya marked the death knell of the Puerto Rican independence
movement as an effective political force. Further scandal erupted in 1978 when two young
independence supporters were shot by police posing as revolutionaries on Cerro Maravilla
in an incident that uncovered corruption, ballot-box fraud and an alleged FBI cover-up.
HILLS OF INDEPENDENCE
Thanks to their impregnable terrain, the central mountains have long acted as a safe
harbor for the rebellious and repressed. Throughout history - from hidden Taínos to
domestic terrorists in the late 1970s - these fertile hills and the proletariat farmers
who work them have often grown the seeds of revolution. They are still the part of
the island where you're likely to encounter the most outspoken advocates for Puerto
Rican independence.
Getting There & Around
The Ruta Panorámica, a chain of 40 mountain roads, travels 165 miles across the roof of
Puerto Rico, from Yabucoa in the east to Mayagüez in the west. This chapter takes you
along this route from east to west. It is generally well marked with distinctive brown road
signs and highlighted on almost all commercial maps of the island. If driving, be careful
and never drive after dark.
The major towns in the central region such as Aibonito, Barranquitas and Adjuntas are eas-
ily accessed by público from either coast. Some of the more remote places, however, are a
little more difficult to reach and, if you're without your own car, you may require lifts, tax-
is or plenty of forward planning. Bikes can be precarious on the Ruta Panorámica, where
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