Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Central Mountains
POP 350,000
Includes »
Why Go?
Those who explore the winding roads of this region find a dramatically different perspective
on the island and a chance to commune with Puerto Rico's old soul. Rough around the edges
and best approached with a flexible agenda, this is a place of Taíno legends and sugarcane
moonshine, muddy hillside towns and misty afternoons.
The whole thing is strung together by the Ruta Panorámica, a vine-covered ribbon of
potholed blacktop that rolls like a roller coaster along the island's rugged spine. Following
rusty road signs, it passes ragged agricultural towns, humid patches of jungle and cliff-edge
vistas where birds of prey glide in lazy circles. Between fog-covered valleys and the sharp
scent of fresh-roasted beans, visitors get a whiff of the endangered cultural essence of Puerto
Rico - moving decidedly more in time with the less-developed Caribbean neighbors than
the paved-over hustle of the States.
When to Go
Unlike the reliably sunny shores, the mountains catch all kinds of weather, and are consider-
ably cooler. Cerro Maravilla in the Toro Negro forest records average temperatures 10°F to
15°F lower than San Juan. In winter, towns in the hills can get downright chilly, sometimes
dropping to 45°F. There's no rainy season, per se, but the hills catch clouds and dampness
gets in the bones, making layered clothing a must. Mornings are clearer, making simultan-
eous views of the north and south coast possible. The Ruta Panorámica is often blanketed in
mist.
