Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Occupying a small sliver of land wedged between Hwy 2 and the sea, Aguadilla is a small
coastal city of patchwork development and surprising contradictions. It's contemporary ap-
peal - including a world-class surf scene and bright marine life - stands in vibrant con-
trast to Eisenhower-era tract housing and the graying campus of a retired US air-force base.
Given its history, it's no surprise that it is a confusing place to navigate, and like many
Puerto Rican towns the historic quarter has been largely abandoned in favor of generic out-
of-town shopping malls along Hwy 2.
The early colonizers of Aguadilla (founded in 1780) were Spanish loyalists fleeing from
the Haitian invasion of Spanish Hispaniola in 1822. By the late 19th century the settlement
had become an important port, but in 1918 its fortunes changed for the worse when it was
ravaged by the destructive San Fermin earthquake and subsequent tsunami.
Attractions in town are few, though a recent renovation has spruced up the central Plaza
Colón. Surfers head north to the unblemished beauty of Crash Boat, Shacks and Jobos
beaches, while committed golfers wheel their clubs to the windy Punta Borinquen course
built for President Dwight Eisenhower. If neither activity is appealing, bypass Aguadilla
for Rincón.
Sights & Activities
Ramey Base
MILITARY BASE
Vieques, Culebra, Desecheo and Roosevelt Rds; sometimes it's hard to avoid bumping into
erstwhile US military anachronisms when you're traveling through Puerto Rico. And, just
when you thought you'd had your fill, here comes Ramey, near Aguadilla, a Cold War com-
mand base created by the US Air Force in 1939. For 30 years the Americans poured money
into Ramey and watched as the surrounding area burgeoned into a populous municipality
of 64,000 people. And then in 1973 the base closed, leaving behind a weirdly homogeneous
stretch of tract housing, American fast-food restaurants and some beguiling urban develop-
ment.
Today, the former base hosts the international Aeropuerto Rafael Hernández, a university
campus, a couple of hotels, a housing project and the only
ice-skating arena (
819-5555; admission $10-13; 9:30am-11pm)
in the Caribbean.
If you are traveling to the base from the south, take Hwy 107 north from Hwy 2. This
route brings you through what is called Gate 1. The traffic can get a little nutty on this road,
so you may want to approach from the east via Hwy 110 (the route to the airport), which
brings you through Gate 5. Once you're in, have fun getting lost on the maze of roads that
lead you around the airfield, administration buildings and the nearly endless plots of former
base housing that have been sold off or rented to Puerto Rican families.
