North Coast - Puerto Rico - page 394

where you'll find a network of dripping caves which can be a great place to cool off. Hon-
ing in on Lares, you'll want to stop in the main plaza for ice cream from the renowned
Heladería de Lares . Next, head east on Hwy 111 (up and down lots of ridges) to the
Parque Ceremonial Indígena Caguana , a quiet park which was once used for worship
and ballgames of indigenous Taíno people. After a quiet walk, follow signs toward Utuado,
but turn off for a short detour to either of the visually stunning mountain lakes in the area,
LagoCaonillas or LagoDosBocas . You'll find serene accommodations and early-
morning yoga nearby at the Casa Grande Mountain Retreat . Regular boats ply the
lake and ramshackle restaurants sell all the regular Puerto Rican favorites. You can walk
off the deep-fried cod fritters by pausing at Bosque Estatal de Río Abajo up Rte 621,
where former lumber roads have been converted to trails. Stay on Hwy 10 as it approaches
the edge of Arecibo city and hook up with Hwy 681. That will bring you down to the
Faro y Parque Histórico de Arecibo , where a picturesque lighthouse stands guard over
the Caribbean.
Sleeping & Eating
Casa Grande Mountain Retreat GUESTHOUSE $$
( 888-343-2272; www.hotelcasagrande.com ; Hwy 612 Km 0.3; r $95-115; ) Ma-
terializing in the heart of Puerto Rico's gorgeous karst country, the Casa Grande is the per-
fect place to escape the daily grind. Nestled in its own steep valley and run efficiently by an
ex-New York lawyer, the ecologically congruous hotel stops you in your tracks and forces
you to slow down. While there are no TVs or phones in any of the 20 rooms, there are
daily yoga classes, a scrumptious on-site restaurant (which only serves breakfast) and each
of the rooms has a porch where you can swing along on the hammock and watch the mist
roll across the hills. This is a place to completely unplug. Note that its website also has an
option for work-exchange stays.
Punta Maracayo Hotel HOTEL $$
( 544-2000; www.hotelpuntamaracayopr.com ; Hwy2Km84.6;r$89-119;
) With excellent service, modern rooms and lots of colorful common spaces, there's no con-
test that Punta Maracayo is the best option along the dreary north coast highways. Although
the facility itself is a bit similar to a quality highway hotel in the US, it does well to dress
things up with fresh tropical flowers in the lobby, wicker furniture and bold modern art.
The pool area in back is a great option for people traveling with children, as it is spacious.