Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Beaches
An anomaly among Puerto Rican beaches,
Playa Mar Chiquita
isn't alongside a main
thoroughfare, has no long strand and isn't good for swimming and surfing. Still, the pure
drama of this place makes it a favorite beach on the island. Here, two goliath coral form-
ations protect a small, shallow cove and tidal pools from the raging crash of the Atlantic,
which sprays foam in unpredictable bursts. In the aftermath, the texture of the coral rushes
with a network of tiny waterfalls into the protected tidal pools. The protected cove can be
calm enough to wade or snorkel at times, but this is the kind of beach best for just stand-
ing in awe of nature, chilling in the small sandy area with a book or picnicking alongside
Puerto Rican families.
There's a hardly visible sign to the beach off Hwy 685, about 2 miles north of Manatí
and just beyond the entrance to the town of Boquillas. If you miss the sign, go north on
Hwy 648 (about a mile east of Boquillas). This road takes you over a steep hill to the beach,
which lies at the bottom of an escarpment where the plateau of the coastal plain has been
hollowed out into caves.
As you continue east on the seaside road (which has now become Hwy 686), you'll pass
through a coastal forest. When the road creeps back to the edge of the coast, the long strand
of
Playa Tortuguero
will be on the left. A couple of miles further east is a normal bal-
neario (public beach),
Playa Puerto Nuevo
- a narrow crescent of sand sheltered by a
broad headland to the east and surrounded by clusters of beach homes.
If this place seems too tame for you, head east from here on Hwy 692, a road that comes
to a halt in a mile or so at the spot where the Río Cibuco joins the sea. The beach along this
road is exposed and punctuated with reefs and rocks. To the south lie cow pastures and sa-
vannas. This beach is known variously as
PlayadeVegaBaja
and
LaCostaRoja
. Strong
riptides make it dangerous for swimming, but the surfing can be excellent and the peace
you find sitting here under a coconut palm may be as good as it gets in Puerto Rico.
After a long detour inland (to clear the swampy mouth of the Río Cibuco), the network
of coastal roads takes you to one more surprising beach as you head east.
Playa de Cerro
Gordo (parking $3)
lies at the end of Hwy 690. This was once the north coast's best-kept
secret, but word is definitely out; the government just pumped several million dollars into
creating restrooms, showers, fire pits and other beach necessities to put Cerro Gordo on the
tourist map - and the additions have improved what was already a first-rate area. Camping
is possible here.
