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to the nearby agricultural research station - and it boasts a lovely river pool (the coolest in
this part of the island), which winds between tropical plants and large rock formations.
Hotel Colonial HOTEL $
( 787-833-2150; www.hotelcolonial.com ; 14CalleIglesia;s/dinclbreakfast$49/99;
) With a bit of negotiation, these 29 rooms can be an affordable option in the
center of town, but the rooms are a bit bleak, with plastic-covered mattresses and dim light-
ing. Still, there's local charm in the long staircases and Moorish tiling of these historic digs,
especially considering the building was once a home for nuns.
Eating & Drinking
E Franco & Co BAKERY, CAFE $
( www.brazogitano.net , in Spanish; 3 Manuel Pirallo; dishes $7-16) Most of Puerto
Rico's culinary legends are less than 20 years old, but this salt-of-the-earth grocery-store-
cum-cafe has been here for more than 150 years and is still drawing in punters from as far
away as San Juan for a monthly stock up. Cocooned in the waterfront warehouse district,
Franco's is an upmarket place with tables scattered around a glass-topped deli counter in
the style of an old English tearoom. Order your lunch from a set menu and you'll receive
a complimentary brazo gitano that goes down well with a cup of fine Puerto Rican coffee.
Stocked with assorted condiments, fresh-baked goods and opulent hampers, the store af-
fords plenty of people-watching opportunities as shoppers from around the island arrive to
pick up their favorite treats.
Stoa's TAPAS, BAR $
(70CalleMéndezVigo;dishes$2-8; breakfast,lunch&dinner; ) Don't be fooled
by the simple first impression of this lunch counter, located in the lobby of Howard John-
son; Stoa's has the best selection of wine in western Puerto Rico. There's a diverse offering
by the glass, and by the bottle the sky's the limit, with imports from Italy, Spain, France
and California. The food is elegantly presented but nothing exceptional - a menu of grilled
sandwiches and hot and cold tapas - but it's all carefully made and hits the spot after a few
glasses.
Rex Cream ICE-CREAM PARLOR $
 
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