Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EAST OF PONCE
Arroyo
On the southeast corner of the island, Arroyo seems to have dozed off shortly after the reign
of 'King Sugar' and never quite awakened. It's the first town on the south coast you'll hit
heading clockwise along the island from San Juan and typical of many of the seaside burgs
in the area, with economies that hobble along through a trickle of tourism and small com-
mercial fishing ventures. The dusty main drag, Calle Morse, passes 19th-century structures
and salt-weathered wooden homes with drooping tin roofs and shuttered windows, eventu-
ally ending at the still, blue Caribbean.
Like Ponce, Arroyo was a rough-and-tumble smugglers' port during colonial days, when
New England sea captains built many of the slouching wooden houses. Arroyo's five
minutes of fame came when Samuel Morse, inventor of the telegraph, installed lines here in
1848. Citizens named the main street after Morse and praise him in the town's anthem.
Entering the village from Hwy 3 to Calle Morse, you'll notice that the upside of Arroyo's
isolation is a lack of commercial development - there's not a Burger King in sight. But, des-
pite its relative charms, the sleepy town is of little interest for travelers and only worth the
detour for those with time to spare.
Hwy 3, the old southern coastal road, skirts the edge of town but Hwy 753 becomes the
main street, which has a smattering of eateries and watering holes.
Sights & Activities
The narrow strand adjoining the Centro Vacacional Punta Guilarte has a
balneario
(public
beach) and is the only decent beach around, even though the waters suffer from pollution.
It's about 3 miles east of Arroyo on a property with grills and tables. Parking costs $2.
Antigua Casa de Aduana
MUSEUM
(Old Customs House; 787-839-8096; 67 Morse; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun)
The elabor-
ately carved former customs house is filled with Morse memorabilia. Call ahead, as hours
vary with the season and the building is often closed for 'renovations.'
