Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
spirit. If you've been fighting your way through the traffic and suburbia of San Juan,
this could be your nirvana; an exotic but laid-back mélange of infectious Latin music and
friendly streetside salesfolk peddling rum, reggae and bioluminescent kayaking trips.
Set on Vieques' calm southern shores, Esperanza's waters are deep, clear and well
sheltered to the north, east and south by two tall, lush islands. The white concrete railings
of the modern
malecón
rise quaintly above the town's narrow beach and, if you arrive at
sunset, you will see twinkling lights and hear ebullient music pouring from the cafes and
restaurants that line the Calle Flamboyán 'Strip' facing the Caribbean.
Some 25 years ago, Esperanza was a desolate former sugar port with a population of
about 1500. Its residents survived by fishing, cattle raising and subsistence farming. But
then a couple of expatriate Americans in search of the
Key Largo,
Bogart-and-Bacall life
discovered the town and started a bar and guesthouse called 'Bananas'. Gradually, word
spread among independent travelers, and a cult following took root. Protected (rather iron-
ically) by the presence of the US military on Vieques, Esperanza, despite a recent growth in
popularity, has managed to retain much of its rustic pioneering spirit and remains an evoc-
ative but fun place to visit.
Bahía Mosquito
NATURE RESERVE
(Bioluminescent Bay;
Click here
)
Locals claim that this bay, a designated wildlife pre-
serve about 2 miles east of Esperanza, has the highest concentration of phosphorescent dyn-
oflagellates not only in Puerto Rico, but in the world (
Click here
). Indeed, it's also known
as Bioluminescent Bay - and it's magnificent.
A trip through the lagoon is nothing short of psychedelic, with hundreds of fish whipping
up bright-green sparkles below the surface as your kayak or electric boat passes by (no
gas-powered boats are permitted - the engine pollution kills the organisms that create phos-
phorescence). But the best part is when you stop to swim: it's like bathing in the stars.
You can just drive east on the rough Sun Bay road (you'd better have a 4WD, though,
because the road's a mess) and jump in for a swim at any point that's glowing. However,
an organized trip will give you far more opportunity to really take in the spread of phos-
phorescence without getting stuck in a huge pothole along the way.
There's another inlet to the east, Barracuda Bay, that's also filled with dynoflagellates,
but tour operators don't venture out that far.
Reservations are highly recommended for boat tours and kayak rentals in high season.
For more information, see Boat Trips (
Click here
) and Kayaking (
Click here
).
