El Yunque & East Coast - Puerto Rico - page 190

groves. Animal species that forage here include big iguanas, fiddler crabs, myriad insects
and all kinds of birds. Such condensed biodiversity is typical of Puerto Rico's compact is-
land status and 'Las Cabezas' is highlighted as an integral part of the commonwealth's vital
- but dangerously threatened - Northeast Ecological Corridor (see www.sierraclub.org/
corridor for more information).
Adding historical value to a potent natural brew is the splendidly restored 1882 Faro
de Las Cabezas de San Juan , Puerto Rico's oldest lighthouse. Adorned with rich neo-
classical detail and topped by a distinctive Spanish colonial tower, it overlooks the penin-
sula's steep, craggy cliffs where the stormy Atlantic meets the Sonda de Vieques (Vieques
Sound). Situated in the eponymous natural reserve on a craggy headland, it today houses
an information center and an observation deck, open the same hours as the reserve, which
offers spectacular views of El Yunque.
There are about 2 miles of trails and boardwalks that lead through the park, but you can't
follow them on your own: you must take a guided tour. This lasts more than two hours,
including the short tram ride through the dry forest section. New night tours (2hr tours
adult/student & senior $20/10) explore the grounds, lighthouse and bioluminescent la-
goon on Thursday, Friday and Saturday at 7pm. Reservations are required for all tours, and
can be made on the reserve's website.
You can get a glimpse of some of the reserve by simply walking east down the narrow
beach from the Playa Seven Seas. Better yet, take a kayak tour ( Click here ) at sunset, and
head into LagunaGrande after dark for the green-glowing, underwater 'fireworks' of bio-
luminescent micro-organisms. Make sure you go in a kayak or sailboat; engine pollution is
slowly killing the very microorganisms that create the bioluminescence. Check that you're
not doing anything to harm the environment before making deals with local boat owners.
Playa Seven Seas BEACH
( www.parquesnacionalespr.com ; admission free, parking $5.35) On the southwestern
shore of the peninsula of Las Cabezas, Playa Seven Seas is a sheltered, coconut-shaded
horseshoe- shaped public beach. While it's not quite as pretty as Playa Luquillo, fear not -
it is attractive. The beach gets packed on weekends and during summer.
For good snorkeling or to get away from it all, follow the beach about a half mile to the
northeast along the Las Cabezas property to an area known as Playa Escondida (Hidden
Beach). The reefs are just offshore. Taking the trail to the west eventually brings you to the
nearly empty Playa El Convento , with its beach house for government officials.
Bahía Las Croabas SCENIC OUTLOOK