Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
former jail that now houses offices and admire the statue of Doña Felisa Gautier, one of
the city's most esteemed former mayors. As you feel the refreshing Atlantic breeze hit you
face-on, you'll spy the city's legendary perimeter wall as well as an imposing bronze
sculpture and fountain called
Raíces
that depicts Taíno, European and African figur-
ines rising amid a shower of cascading water.
Behind the fountain, follow the Paseo de la Princesa as it cuts northwest along the wa-
terfront with excellent views over Bahía de San Juan toward the Bacardí Rum Factory.
You'll see turreted guard towers called
garitas
carved into the thick city walls here, dis-
tinctive conical structures that have become symbolic of Puerto Rico and its rich colonial
history. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Spanish ships once anchored in the cove just off
these ramparts to unload colonists and supplies, all of which entered the city through a tall
red portal known as
Puerta de San Juan
, dating from the 1630s.
Pass through the gate and turn right onto Recinto Oeste. This short cobblestoned street
leads to the guarded iron gates of
La Fortaleza
, a one-time fort that today is more
redolent of a well-preserved classical palace. After stopping for a guided tour of this exec-
utive mansion, head back northwest, taking a moment to gaze out over the water from the
diminutive
Plazuela de la Rogativa
and admire its bronze sculpture of a religious pro-
cession.
Follow the leafy Caleta de San Juan up the slope to the beautiful Plazuela Las Monjas
(Nun's Square), where stray cats stretch and sunbathe and romantic couples linger. Famil-
ies will want to stop in at the excellent children's museum located here. On the north side
of the plaza is
Gran Hotel El Convento
, Puerto Rico's grandest hotel, well worth a
casual inspection or a longer stop to dine and drink at one of its evocative courtyard res-
taurants. To the east lies the
Catedral de San Juan
, a relatively austere religious
building whose importance is enhanced by its age (dating from 1540) and the fact that the
remains of Juan Ponce de León rest inside.
Cut along Luna for a block before heading right down San José. Take a left onto San
Francisco, which will bring you to the
Plaza de Armas
, a small but important square
and the hub of the old city. If the effects of your first coffee have worn off you can pro-
cure excellent top-ups here from one of the traditional booths that decorate the plaza.
Drop south one block and continue east along Fortaleza and you'll soon fall upon the urb-
an inquietude of
SoFo
, Old San Juan's funky restaurant and nightlife quarter that has
injected vitality and hipness into the aged colonial core. Break here for your midday meal
or window shop the profusion of creative menus and make a plan for dinner. Fortaleza
ends in the
Plaza de Colón
, named for the great Genoese explorer and site of the
former land entrance to the walled city from Puerta de Tierra. Cut north up Av Muñoz
Rivera here and you'll come to
Fuerte San Cristóbal
, the old city's other major forti-
fication, which harbors an interesting museum and theatrical military reenactments, plus
fascinating tunnel tours during the weekend.
