Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
material in English. Particularly interest-
ing are the room on Russia's Mir Iskusstva
movement and the large collection of paint-
ings by Kazakh Abylkhan Kasteev (1904-73).
Kasteev's clear portraits, landscapes and
scenes of Soviet progress (railways, collec-
tive farming) obviously toed the party line
but his technique is fabulous. Bus 95 west
along Satpaev from Furmanov gets you here.
Green¨Market¨
mARKET
(Zelyony Bazar, Kok Bazar;
%
273 89 61; Zhibek
Zholy 53;
h
8am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This large, two-
level market has a true flavour of Central
Asia, and is worth putting on your itiner-
ary even if you're not really food shopping.
Stalls are piled with nuts, fresh and dried
fruit, smoked fish, spices, ready-made Ko-
rean salads, vegetables, medicinal herbs,
cheeses, sausages and enormous hunks of
fresh meat.
You can get
kymyz
(fermented horse
milk),
shubat
(fermented camel's milk) and
freshly squeezed pomegranate juice here
too - and cafes dotted around the place will
serve a bowl of
laghman
(long, stout noo-
dles) or
plov
(fried rice with vegetables and
sometimes meat) with tea and bread for less
than 600T.
Respublika¨Alany¨
PLAZA
This broad, Soviet-created ceremonial
square provides a panoramic view of the
snowcapped mountains on a clear morn-
ing. Its focus is the tall
Independence¨
Monument
. The stone column is sur-
mounted with a replica Golden Man stand-
ing on a winged snow leopard. Around its
base are statues of a Kazakh family; behind
is a semicircular wall of low-relief bronze
sculptures depicting scenes from Kaza-
khstan's history, from Golden Man times at
the left end to Nazarbaev at the right.
Overlooking the square from the south is
the neoclassical-style
Maslikhat
(City Coun-
cil)
building. Southeast of here, opposite
the Central State Museum, is a large official
Presidential¨Residence
(Furmanov 205)
. At
the top of Zheltoksan, the striking
Dawn¨
of¨ Freedom¨ Monument
honours those
killed and injured on Respublika alany on
17 December 1986 during the Zheltoksan
(December) protests, the first unrest un-
leashed in Central Asia by the Gorbachev
era of glasnost. Possibly as many as 250
people were killed when police opened
fire on rioters protesting against the
appointment of a Russian, Gennady Kol-
e
0
800 m
0
0.5 miles
E
F
1
66
66
#
ß
5
66
106
104
#
#
ÿ
30
#
2
7
#
æ
Central (Gorky)
Park (Main
Entrance)
D
Aquapark
(150m)
41
#
÷
#
ú
#
÷
4
#
í
89
#
û
54
â
17
#
æ
16
10
#
Ü
í
80
#
#
÷
13
6
66
3
95
#
#
ú
50
82
#
Caspian
Rent-a-Car
(2km)
56
#
94
#
û
#
Iranian
Consulate
(1km)
90
4
2
37
#
ú
#
æ
#
û
66
#
æ
59
8
#
109
#
ý
61
#
í
74
#
æ
3
5
#
ú
43
46
#
ú
#
í
83
66
Kok-Tobe
(by cable
car; 500m)
MIKRORAYON
SAMAL-1
6
6
66
6
#
í
88
#
ú
47
99
98
#
#
7
German Consulate
(1km); Trekking
Club (12km)
Kok Tobe
Kafe (200m)
#
î
79
E
F
