Turkmenistan - Central Asia - page 394

Dromedaries (Arabian camels) are every-
where, wandering scenically between vil-
lages and towns. Many of the Karakum's
nastiest inhabitants are really exciting to see
in real life - most importantly the zemzen,
or varan, a large monitor lizard - though
these are extremely rare. Despite its large
size and particularly painful bite, Turkmen
have traditionally welcomed the giant lizard
as it devours or scares away snakes (such as
cobras), eats mice and eradicates colonies of
sandflies. You are also likely to see desert
foxes, owls and the very common desert
squirrel.
Tarantulas and black widow spiders are
both indigenous to Turkmenistan, although
you are unlikely to see them. Cobras, vi-
pers and scorpions can all be found in the
desert, so tread with caution.

SURVIVAL GUIDE
8 Directory¨A-Z
ACCOMMODATION
As a rule hotels throughout the country are
easily divided into dilapidated Soviet-era behe-
moths and newer three- and four-star ventures
built since independence. Turkmen citizens
can stay at a hotel at a discounted rate, which
is usually 60% to 80% less than the price
that foreigners are charged. So while you may
have to pay for the lodging of your guide, this
shouldn't cost more than a few dollars. Do note
that foreigners have to pay for hotels in Turk-
menistan in cash US dollars, save in the few
hotels in the country that accept credit cards.
it's illegal for tourists to sleep in a private
home if a licensed hotel exists in the same city;
some travellers have got in trouble for staying
with a family or in unlicensed guesthouses.
This law does not apply for travellers on a tran-
sit visa, who do not require registration.
Camping is often the only option in remote
places such as the Yangykala Canyon and the
Darvaza Gas Craters, and most guides can
provide tents and sleeping bags.
ACTIVITIES
Horse-lovers from around the world lock to
Turkmenistan to ride the unique Akhal-Teke
thoroughbreds. Many travel agencies ofer
specialist horse-trekking tours with these
beautiful creatures.
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
in Turkmenistan oicial regulations state that
you need permission to export any carpet more
than 6 sq m, though trying to export a smaller
one without an export licence is also likely to be
problematic. in all cases it's best to take your
carpet to the Carpet Museum (p374) in Ashga-
bat, where there is a bureau that will value and
tax your purchase, and provide an export li-
cence. This can take up to a few days. There are

Environmental Issues
Turkmenistan has paid a heavy price for
the irrigation of its southern belt, using
source water bound for the Aral Sea. While
the Aral Sea is in Uzbekistan and Kaza-
khstan, its disappearance has led to desper-
ate environmental problems in northern
Turkmenistan, with the salination of the
land taking its toll on the health of local
people. Overfishing is another concern, as
caviar-bearing sturgeon become rarer in
the Caspian Sea. There is very little envi-
ronmental consciousness in Turkmenistan,
where no one bothers to save gas, electric-
ity or water because all are subsidised by
the government.

Food & Drink
Similar to other Central Asian countries,
shashlyk is the staple dish across Turk-
menistan and is considered at its best when
cooked over the branches of a saxaul tree.
Other favoured snacks include samsa (sa-
mosa; meat-filled pastries), plov (meat, rice
and carrots) and a variation on the meat
pastry called fitchi, which is larger and
round in shape.
Dograma, made from bread and pieces
of boiled meat and onions, is a traditional
Turkmen meal. Other soups include chorba
(soup of boiled mutton with potato, carrot
and turnip, known elsewhere in the region
as shorpa) . Manty (steamed dumplings)
served with sour cream is another popular
dish.

PRACTICALITIES
¨ The main daily newspapers are Turk-
menistan and the Russian-language
Nevtralny Turkmenistan ( Neutral Turk-
menistan ). All papers glorify the presi-
dent, as is obvious from the pictures on
the front pages. There is no independent
or privately owned press.
¨ The six national TV channels show
scenes of Turkmen culture and nature.
Satellite TV is widely available in larger
cities, and remains the main source of
objective news for all Turkmen.