Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
function, this is one of Central Asia's most
perfect buildings. Its geometric patterns
are in effect a giant calendar signifying
humanity's insignificance in the march of
time. There are 365 sections on the spar-
kling mosaic underside of the dome, rep-
resenting the days of the year; 24 pointed
arches immediately beneath the dome
representing the hours of the day; 12 big-
ger arches below representing the months
the year; and four big windows represent-
ing the weeks of the month. The cupola is
unusual in early Islamic architecture and
has its equal only in Shiraz, Iran.
Gutlug¨Timur¨¨
Minaret¨
MiNARET
Crossing the road from Turabeg Khanym
Complex to the side of the minaret, the
path through a modern cemetery and the
19th-century
Sayid¨ Ahmed¨ Mausoleum
leads to the Gutlug Timur Minaret, built
in the 1320s. It's the only surviving part
of Old Urgench's main mosque. Decorated
with bands of brick and a few turquoise
tiles, its 59m-tall minaret is not as tall as
it once was, and leans noticeably. It's inter-
esting to note that there is no entrance to
the minaret - it was linked to the adjacent
mosque by a bridge 7m above the ground.
Since that mosque was destroyed, the only
way into the minaret is by ladder. There
are 144 steps to the top, although you can't
climb it now.
Kyrk¨Molla¨
HiLL
The mound of graves called the Kyrk Molla
(Forty Mullahs Hill) is a sacred place where
Konye-Urgench's inhabitants held their last
stand against the Mongols. Here you'll see
young women rolling down the hill in a
fertility rite - one of Konye-Urgench's more
curious attractions.
Sultan¨Tekesh¨
Mausoleum¨
MAUSOLEUM
Instantly recognisable by its conical tur-
quoise dome, the Sultan Tekesh Mausoleum
is one of Konye-Urgench's most beautiful
monuments. Tekesh was the 12th-century
Khorezmshah who made Khorezm great
with conquests as far south as Khorasan
(present-day northern Iran and northern
Afghanistan). It is believed that he built
this mausoleum for himself, along with a
big medressa and library (which did not
survive) on the same spot. However, some
scholars theorise that the building had
earlier existed as a Zoroastrian temple.
After his death in 1200 Tekesh was ap-
parently buried here, although there is no
tomb. There are recent excavations of sev-
eral early Islamic graves near the entrance
to the building.
Il-Arslan¨
Mausoleum¨
MAUSOLEUM
The Il-Arslan Mausoleum is Konye-Ur-
gench's oldest standing monument. The
conical dome, with a curious zig-zag brick
pattern, is the first of its kind and was ex-
ported to Samarkand by Timur. Il-Arslan,
who died in 1172, was Tekesh's father. The
building is small but well worth a close
look. The conical dome with 12 faces is
unique, and the collapsing floral terracotta
moulding on the facade is also unusual.
Mamun¨II¨¨
Minaret¨
MiNARET
South of the Il-Arslan Mausoleum lies the
base of the Mamun II Minaret, which was
built in 1011, reduced to a stump by the
Mongols, rebuilt in the 14th century and
finally toppled by an earthquake in 1895.
Nearby you'll see the so-called portal of an
unknown building. The structure is now
thought to have been the entrance to the
palace of Mohammed Khorezmshah, due to
its ornateness and the thickness of its walls.
4
¨Sleeping
Ürgenç¨Hotel¨
HOTEL $
(
%
3 44 65; Dashogus köçesi; s/d US$14/28;
a
)
The rooms here are clean, spacious and
have bathrooms with hot water - a luxury
in a small Turkmen town. There's a small
chaikhana here too, offering basic break-
fasts and hot meals (order in advance). Staff
don't speak English, but are very friendly.
8
Getting¨There¨&¨Away
The town's makeshift bus station is a scrub of
land where taxis, marshrutki and buses pick up
passengers. it's opposite the Ürgenç Hotel and
a taxi ride from the town centre.
One bus per day goes to Ashgabat (30M,
seven to eight hours) and regular marshrutki
go to Dashogus (4M, two hours). Taxis leave for
Ashgabat (per seat 40M) and Dashogus (per
seat 7M) at all times of day.
A taxi to the border with Uzbekistan (20km
away) should cost 5M and can be picked up
anywhere.
