Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
other direction trucks arrive around midnight
(hitchhikers report a crash pad with 15TJS sleep-
ing spaces at the terminal), and continue the
next day at around 8am for China via the Qolma
Pass. Spoken Chinese would often prove helpful.
Shared taxis to Rang-Kul (20TJS) leave in
the late afternoon from behind Aida Kafe in the
bazaar, returning the next morning.
Murgab can be cut of entirely for a day or
two after heavy winter snows or summer lash
loods.
RANG-KUL РАНГКУЛЬ
For stark, mountain deserts, salt lakes
and giant sand dunes you might explore
the Rang-Kul area. Rang-Kul village has
homestays and ZholKerbez ( % 3554-213
30; Kok-Otok 12, Rang-Kul village) runs yurtstay
camel treks (per camel for one/two/three
days US$70/90/110, pre-booking essential),
but don't underestimate the discomfort of
camel-riding.
SHAIMAK ШАЙМАК
To really get off the beaten track, take the
road up the Ak-Suu Valley to Shaimak,
126km from Murgab, at the strategic junc-
tion of the borders of Tajikistan, Afghani-
stan, China and Pakistan. This is about as
Great Game as it gets! You may need KGB
approval to travel past the checkpoint before
Tokhtamysh.
After crossing the lovely Subashi plain,
the road passes the turn-off to the Qolma
Pass, Tajikistan's only border crossing with
China (currently closed to foreigners). You
may be rewarded with views of Muztagh Ata
from here.
At the village of Tokhtamysh you could
detour 1km across the river to a damaged
bow-shaped geoglyph and the faint ruins
of a 19th-century caravanserai. The scenery
gets increasingly impressive, passing roll-
ing Pamiri peaks, seasonal lakes and scenic
yurts.
Shaimak village (3852m) is located below
the impressive 5365m bluff of Ak Tash, and
sports a striking whitewashed mosque that
looks like it's been borrowed from a Sahara
fantasy film set. There are exciting views of
the Little Pamir which stretches across into
Afghanistan - three days a year in June the
border is reportedly opened to cross-border
trade with Kyrgyz herders living in extreme
isolation on the far side.
On the way back, stop for a quick look at
the beehive-shaped tombs at Konye¨Kurgan
(Old Tomb), 7km from Murgab.
A return 4WD hire to Shaimak is likely to
cost about US$200 (240km trip).
8 Getting¨Around
Four city-style bicycles are available to rent from
Maribed Saparova ( % 93-703 96 13, 213 38; 70-
let Murgab 87; per day US$7), whose unsigned
house is a short block east, then two homes
south, from Tulfabek Homestay.
Around Murgab
PSHART & MADIYAN VALLEYS
ДОЛИНЫ ПШАРТ И МАДИЯН
Two photogenic valleys strike west from
either end of Murgab. Pshart, the more
northerly, is initially parched and colourful
with mineral layers. In contrast the Madiyan
Valley's rugged rock walls are set off vividly
against lush green riverside pastures and
even copses of small trees - an especially
lovely sight before sunset around the tiny
hamlet of Ak-Tal (Km32), whose tiny white-
washed mosque adds foreground to the cliff-
backed scene. From Ak-Tal a very bumpy
4WD track crosses the river and winds up
9km, then down 700m to access some in-
credibly isolated hot¨springs , which you're
likely to have all to yourself, if you dare to
cross the river to access them. That requires
shimmying along a short, but precarious,
'bridge' missing most of the slats between
two steel rails.
It's possible to do a long, strenuous day
hike between the Pshart and Madiyan sides,
starting up the Gumbezkul side valley from
a horse-breeding centre/yurtstay where
the Pshart Valley divides. After some steep
scrambles and stunning views from 4731m
Gumbezkul¨Pass , you pass another yurtstay
around 7km before emerging on the Madiy-
an Valley road around Km18. Agencies can
organise a guide plus 4WD drop-off/pick up
at either end of the trail for around US$120.
Alternatively a minivan taxi to Pshart yurt
camp costs 80TJS.
A return 4WD day trip to the Madiyan hot
springs runs around US$50 per vehicle.
SHAKHTY & ZOR-KUL
ШАХТЫ И ЗОРКУЛЬ
The impressive Neolithic cave paintings of
Shakhty (4200m) are 50km southwest of
Murgab, 25km off the Pamir Highway, in the
dramatic Kurteskei Valley. Soviet archaeolo-
gists apparently took shelter in the cave dur-
ing a storm one night in 1958, only to awake
the next morning open-mouthed in front of
 
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