Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE PAMIRS
Gorno-Badakhshan (eastern Tajikistan)
is almost a different country and indeed
it has its own special entry requirements
(see p366). Officially called Kohistani
Badakhshan, though commonly abbre-
viated to GBAO for its Soviet-era name
(Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast),
the region accounts for 45% of Tajikistan's
territory but only 3% of its population.
Most of the 212,000 souls who do live here
are Pamiris whose irrigated villages lie
deep within dramatic rocky valleys above
which snow-dusted mountain peaks rise.
The eastern region, however, is mostly a
stark moonscape plateau, at an altitude
of well above 3000m, sparsely populated
with Kyrgyz herders whose sheep and yaks
eke out an existence in those areas fertile
enough for grass to grow.
Locals romantically nickname the re-
gion Bam-i-Dunya (the Roof of the World).
Westerners talk about 'the Pamirs' of-
ten assuming that the term refers to the
5000m plus mountains. You will indeed
find three of the four highest peaks of the
former Soviet Union here. But the word
pamir
actually translates from ancient
Persian as 'rolling pastureland', referring to
the valleys between those interconnected
mountain ranges.
Sleeping¨&¨Eating
Most tourist accommodation in rural Bada-
khshan is in simple, comfortable homestays,
usually typical Pamiri houses with outdoor
toilet holes. There are also yurtstays in the
eastern Pamir. Formal homestays typically
cost around US$15 per person including two
meals. If you receive an informal invitation
we suggest you still offer around US$10,
possibly leaving the money discreetly in an
envelope to avoid embarrassment or refusal.
PECTA (p346) in Khorog and TIC (p354) in
Murgab have extensive homestay lists.
Khorog has cafes and a well-stocked, rel-
atively expensive bazaar. Murgab has very
basic diners; its bazaar is very limited and
prices are even higher. Few other villages
have even a regular shop and unmarked
house-stores don't stock much beyond Chi-
nese beer and expired Snickers bars. It's
best to eat in homestays. Almost any rural
home can provide basic snacks on request.
Expect to pay from 3TJS per person (10TJS
minimum) for the simplest bread and tea,
even if you aren't asked for money.
8
Getting¨There¨&¨Around
Transport is remarkably sparse. Hitching is
slow but possible if you don't mind waiting
hours or days. Chances are better on the
Pamir Highway between Khorog and Murgab
if you learn the Chinese truckers' driving pat-
terns. Hitching Sary Tash to Murgab is virtu-
ally impossible unless you meet an unusually
merciful tourist vehicle.
Shared 4WDs run at least daily from Khorog
to Murgab, Murgab to Osh and from Khorog
to local destinations within an hour or two's
drive, but frequency is so low that you might
wish you'd rented a 4WD with a group of fellow
travellers.
For information on travelling around the
Wakhan Valley, see p350
4WD HIRE
Hiring a private vehicle with driver gives you a
lexibility that you will value greatly in this scenic
and fascinating area where transport is other-
wise in exceedingly short supply.
Typical per kilometre rates range from
US$0.55 to US$0.95, plus US$15 to $20 per day
to cover the driver's living expenses on overnight
or longer trips. As well as the obvious question
of petrol price, the main factors afecting these
rates are the type of vehicle you hire, the driver,
the route taken (one-way or loop), and where you
hire the vehicle.
Type of vehicle
While you can typically rent
a Niva for around US$0.10/0.20 per km less
than a Musso/Pajero, it holds fewer people
and is less comfortable. For seriously arduous
terrain a UAZ is probably the strongest option
but it is very fuel-thirsty and a landCruiser,
which comes a close second for toughness,
has better visibility and is far more comfort-
able… unless you're in the four side-facing
back seats.
Driver
Ideally meet the driver before depar-
ture, give his vehicle the once-over, check
that the 4WD is operational and, if crossing
to (from) Osh (in Kyrgyzstan), check that the
driver has a passport (and gBAO permit).
English-language skills have obvious advan-
tages, but in reality a lively, helpful driver is
often better than a linguistically capable but
sullen or inexperienced one. Drivers under 40
years old are rarely as mechanically capable
as old boys.
Return trip
You might be travelling one way
but the driver needs to get home and you'll
generally need to figure those extra kilometres
into the price. So making a loop trip has signifi-
cant cost advantages. However, if you employ
a driver who regularly makes a standard route
then you need only pay one way (for example,
track down a Murgab-based driver in Khorog
for a cheaper trip to Murgab).
