Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DIY¨TREKKING¨IN¨THE¨FAN¨&¨ZERAFSHAN¨MOUNTAINS
The splendidly rugged, glaciated Fan Mountains are one of Central Asia's premier trek-
king detinations, tudded with dozens of turquoise lakes and high-mountain vitas.
Treks here are for fully equipped, experienced walkers, sometimes requiring tream
and ice crossings, and you'll need to deal with both summer heat and potentially seri-
ous cold at diferent altitudes. Stock up with food supplies in Penjikent where ZTDA
(p333) and ZTB (p333) sell excellent 1:100,000 guide maps of the Fan Mountains
and of Yagnob for those attempting the even more remote Yagnob-Zerafshan treks.
EWP also has Fan maps (www.ewpnet.com/fannmap.htm). A superb resource is www.
trekkinginthepamirs.com with photos, timings, route notes and some trails GPS-
waymarked.
Routes¨from¨Artush
Three daily buses from Penjikent run to Artush (hometay available) passing the Rudaki
mausoleum at Panjrud.
A two-hour (7km) walk reaches the alplager (mountaineers' camp; 2200m), then
three more hours' uphill takes you into the Kulikalon bowl, home to a dozen deep-blue
lakes. Excellent camping can be found near Dushakha Lake, at the foot of 5489m Chim-
targa, the region's highet peak. There are two possible high-pass routes on from here to
the beautiful Alaudin¨Lakes .
A three-day trek from the Zitmud village hometay southwet of Artush, crosses the
3810m Dukdon Pass to Sarytag/Iskander-kul.
Routes¨from¨Haft¨Kul
Trails from Haft-Kul (Seven Lakes) between the sixth and seventh lake lead over the
Tavasang Pass (3300m) to the Archa Maidan Valley to Zitmud, or cut across the Munora
Pass (3520m) to join the Dukdon Pass route to Sarytag and Iskander-Kul.
Yagnob-Zerafshan¨Treks
A series of trails link the parallel valleys of Yagnob and Zerafshan in around a week, nota-
bly the Veshab/Shamtuj-Bedev/Hishortob trail and Langar-Yagnob trail. More eaterly
routes generally require glacier-crossing sections.
ing views continue as you drive along the
6km of coast road. Higher uplands are ac-
cessed by a winding 5km drive up from the
president's lakeside dacha to Sarytag¨vil-
lage . Dwarfed by the contorted rocky bulk
of Mt Sarytag, the little village (population
300, 38km from Sarvoda) makes a great
walking base, whether just strolling to the
discordantly ostentatious mansion villa at
the village's western limits or for longer
Fan Mountain treks.
4 ¨Sleeping
While sleeping lakeside can be charming,
staying in Sarytag provides more hiking
options. Assume simplicity, outdoor toilet
holes and no spoken English.
Asliddin¨Siroyidinov's¨Cabin¨ HOMESTAY $
Has arguably the best location, but it's small,
rather isolated partway round the lake, and
only open by arrangement.
Shezok¨ gUESTHOUSE $
(s/d 50/100TJS) Close to the barrier where
the main access road arrives at the lake, is
a relatively new option and the only home-
stay to have an indoor shower and beds
(rather than mats on the floor).
Turbaza¨Iskanderkul¨ YOUTH COTTAgES $
( % 93-504 74 03, 90-500 0227; per person 50-
90TJS) A collection of 30 four-room, Soviet-
era cabins dotted through a woodland with
shared institutional bathroom-blocks that
spare no blushes for privacy. It's overpriced
compared to homestays but much livelier (at
weekends anyway).
LAKESIDE
Remarkably, given the almost total lack
of other buildings around Iskander-Kul,
there are three waterfront accommodation
options.
SARYTAG
Guesthouse¨Shahboz¨ HOMESTAY
At the entrance to Sarytag village, this
purpose-built little guesthouse is marginally
Search WWH ::




Custom Search