Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Soyuz¨Bistro¨
CAFETERIA $
(mains 9-15TJS;
h
24hr)
Bright, cheap base-
ment cafeteria with a few Lenin portraits to
relieve the stark white walls. Super-central
but almost invisible beneath Southern Fried
Chicken.
o
Traktir¨Konservator¨
UKRAINIAN $$
(mains 18-55TJS;
h
11am-10pm;
WE
)
The
brilliantly atmospheric old-Russia decor
mixes classic theatre posters, part-plas-
tered wall arches, heavy beams, archaic
clocks, flat-irons, antique windows, samo-
vars and stove doors. Even the toilets are
packed with humour. The Ukrainian cui-
sine includes chicken strudel (nuts rolled
in chicken breast and doused in lemon
sauce), roast quail with grapes, mutton-
aubergine stew and various pancakes, as
well as expat frighteners such as
sala
and
smoked pigs' ears. It's hidden down a side
alley behind the obvious Pamir restaurant
that faces a park full of other summer
cafes amid mature plane trees. Wicked
mojitos.
Ghalaba¨
CENTRAl ASIAN $$
(Victory Park; Park Pobedy); mains 20-65TJS;
h
2pm-1am)
For sweeping views over the
city it's hard to beat the rustic, vine-draped
open-air booths and thatch-covered
tap-
chans
at Ghalaba. It's right at the upper
station of the cable car, which is currently
defunct, but reportedly due for renovation
in coming years.
La¨Grande¨Dame¨
FRENCH, EUROPEAN $$
(
%
227 62 74, 501 00 89; www.lagrandedamecafe.
com; cnr Bukhoro & Shevchenko; mains 15-72TJS,
pizza 23-37TJS, breakfast items 10-25TJS;
h
8am-
11pm;
WE
)
Exposed brickwork, classical
plaster mouldings, worn parquet and a
shady open-air porch create a valiant ap-
proximation of an old-world provincial
French cafe. Good for blinnies, lunchtime
baguettes (12TJS to 15TJS), quiche of the
day or just for sipping properly made coffee
(12TJS to 17TJS).
Arirang¨
KOREAN $$
(
%
224 43 43; Rudaki 96; mains 30-80TJS, snacks
15-20TJS, rice/beer 4/13TJS;
h
11.30am-10pm
Mon-Sat)
Behind a misleadingly dreary fa-
cade, Arirang oozes faux-Orient style using
ropes, manuscript panelling and bundles of
contorted twigs. Savour authentic Korean
food at heavy wooden tables or on raised
floor mats.
Salam¨Namaste¨
INDIAN $$
(Rudaki 81; curries 26-45TJS, rice/naan/beer
10/7/13TJS;
h
11am-11pm;
WvE
)
Genuine
Indian food served at a pleasant, unfussy
central location.
Merve¨Restaurant¨
TURKISH $$
(Druzhba Naradov (Dusti Khalkho) 47; mains 18-
24TJS;
h
8am-11pm)
This plush branch of Café
Merve (p321), beneath a bowling alley, has
pleasant covered street-seating.
Izum¨
INTERNATIONAl $$
(
%
98-106 66 66; http://4sq.com/tyrfpI; Foteh
Niyezi 44; mains 15-55TJS, beer 13TJS;
h
10am-
11.30pm;
WvE
)
Local fabrics and piled
cushions lend a mildly exotic aura to this
comfortable restaurant and hubble-bubble
bar. It serves excellent salmon steaks plus
an unusually extensive series of vegetarian
choices including baked pumpkin, lentil
burgers and cauliflower cheese.
Marco¨Polo¨
EUROPEAN, AFgHAN $$$
(Tursunzoda 80; mains 39-150TJS;
h
11am-11pm;
WE
)
If it's just too hot outside, retreat
to this fake stalactite-filled cavern room
with shimmering couch covers and piled
colourful cushions. Fun but really pricey.
Self-Catering
Poitakht¨Supermarket¨
SUPERMARKET
(Tursunzoda 45;
h
8am-midnight)
Well-stocked
central supermarket.
6
¨Drinking¨&¨Nightlife
Dushanbe's outdoor cafe-bars are particu-
larly pleasant on a warm summer evening.
Sadly our favourite places in front of the
Opera closed in summer 2013 to make way
for a big new fountain, but the noisier park
behind still has cafes and the ever reliable
Chaykhona Rokhat (p321) serves cold, local
Simsim draught beer very inexpensively.
o
Café¨Segafredo¨
ITAlIAN, CAFE
(Rudaki 70; pasta/mains/coffee/cocktails from
18/35/7/15TJS;
W
)
Euro-chic place to
recharge on excellent real macchiatos or
fresh carrot and apple juice (14TJS). Large
street-terrace area, good wi-fi, mostly Italian
menu.
Public¨
PUB
(www.facebook.com/irish.publicpub; Bokhtar 2;
beer/guinness/cocktals from 10/38/20TJS;
h
noon-11pm)
Convivial Irish pub that's
standing room only with expats after work
on Friday evenings.
