Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Town Hostel ( % +86-9982-82 32 62; www.
kashgaroldcity.hostel.com/; Wusitangboyi Lu
233, Kashgar) and/or ask agencies Uighur
Tours ( % +86-1339-9773 311; www.uighurtour.
com; Qinibagh Hotel, old lobby, Kashgar) or Old
Road Tours ( % +86-1389-9132 103; http:
oldroadtours.com; Seman Hotel) whether they
have groups you can join.
Cyclists need to have agency-arranged vehicles
organised on the Chinese side and an oicial let-
ter allowing them to ride under their own steam
on the Kyrgyz side: subject to some strict rules
about not deviating from the main road before
the inner frontier post.
The whole Kashgar-Naryn route (typically nine
to 12 hours) is scenically delightful, if weather
conditions oblige, though the mesmerising
views of high-altitude lake Chatyr-Köl tend to be
slightly marred by power lines.
To/From Kazakhstan
Bishkek-Almaty Minibuses/private cars shut-
tle directly between the capitals (400/450som,
4½ hours) as full. Alternatively, take a
Tamozhna marshrutka to the border (p248).
Karkara Closed to foreigners for several years,
the back-door route into Kazakhstan via the
Karkara Valley has reopened (summers only)
since 2013 but there's no cross-border public
transport. Coming from the Kazakhstan side,
take a Kegen-bound marshrutka, then a taxi
for the last 28km to the border. Pre-arranged
with CBT Karakol , a pickup from the border
costs US$60 per car to Issyk-Köl. Hitchhiking is
possible if you have tents and are prepared to
wait a day or two.
To/From Tajikistan
Pamir Highway Bordöbo checkpoint between
Murgab and Sary Tash is open for foreign-
ers whose Tajik visa includes a gBAO permit
validated 'Murgab district'.
A vehicle from Osh to Murgab costs anywhere
between US$200 to US$300 and this can be
split between ive people (but it can be diicult
to ind other travellers willing to share the cost).
It takes around eight hours to reach the border
from Osh (consider breaking the journey in Sary
Tash). The border opens at dawn. This is cold
and rugged territory so pack warm clothing.
Remind the Kyrgyz border guards to stamp your
passport - they sometimes forget.
Karamyk Although the Alay Valley route to
garm opened briefly in late 2012, the Karamyk
border is currently closed again for all foreign-
ers. Rumours suggest that it might reopen in
2015 but don't hold your breath.
Batken-Isfara In the Fergana Valley, crossing
the border between Batken and Isfara ( not
Isfana) in Tajikistan is quick and painless. Taxis
and the odd marshrutka make through trips
so there's no need to change vehicles at the
border. This route is your only Kyrgyzstan-
Tajikistan option if you failed to get a gBAO
permit for the Murgab route. Reaching Batken
has a minor bureaucratic twist (see p298).
To/From Uzbekistan
There are no direct passenger trains between
Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan.
Dostyk (Dustlyk) The main Fergana border
to Andijon is on the outskirts of Osh reached
by very regular marshrutkas (8som). Although
there are often long lines, Western travellers
are often pushed to the front of the queue.
Walk across the border and jump in a frequent
shared taxi to Andijon (8000S, 40 minutes).
Beware that at times of political tension, this
border has been known to close for consider-
able periods.
8 Getting¨Around
Only a handful of routes employ full-size buses,
but minibuses, some timetabled, others depart-
ing when full, wait for passengers at most bus
stations as do shared taxis. If you pay for all four
seats the latter will also act as private one-way
taxis. Agency or CBT-arranged drivers generally
cost around double since they must cover the
probability of returning empty, but such options
are still worth considering for complex routes
with multiple or overnight stops, and you'll often
get a better vehicle (not necessarily English-
speaking drivers, though). Typical rates are
between 14som and 18som per kilometre plus an
overnight fee between 700som to 1000som to
cover the driver's expenses. Self-drive car rental
is a new concept but there are two local agencies
in Bishkek (p249). Swiss-run MuzToo (p295) in
Osh rents Yamaha-600 trail motorbikes but they
don't come cheap.
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