Kyrgyzstan - Central Asia - page 299

Mountaineering & Climbing
For those seeking real expeditions, Kyrgyzstan
ofers the allure of three 7000m+ peaks, notably
the majestic Khan Tengri and relatively 'easy'
Peak Lenin (partly in Tajikistan but accessed
from Kyrgyzstan). The latter is also probably
the world's most accessible and inexpensive
peak to climb but don't let those relative terms
fool you into complacency. It can still be a killer.
There are many unclimbed peaks, notably in the
Kokshal range bordering China, and a remark-
able series of clifs and ridges in southwestern
Kyrgyzstan. The granite walls of the Karavshin
area are world class, but their popularity has
yet to fully recover from an infamous episode in
2000 when four rash American climbers were
kidnapped by IMU militants on the 750m-tall Yel-
low Wall. The tale, thought by some to be highly
over-dramatised, was the subject of greg Child's
2002 book Over the Edge .
For climbers and mountaineers wanting less
full-on challenges, there are lots of options in
the valleys south of Bishkek. The Kyrgyz Alpine
Club's useful website (www.kac.centralasia.kg)
is blocked by some servers as a security threat.
Rafting
Silk Road Water Centre (p233) organises rafting
on the Kökömeren (grade IV), Chuy (grade III),
Naryn (grade IV) and Chong-Kemin (grades II
to III) rivers. The season runs from 25 June until
mid-September. Wetsuits are essential in the
glacial melt water.
Skiing
Despite the fact that 94% of the country aver-
ages over 2700m, skiing in Kyrgyzstan is still
in its infancy. Currently the only 'ski ields' are
around Bishkek and Karakol. The season runs
from mid-November until mid-March. With the
advent of heli-skiing, Russian-built MI-8 helicop-
ters are ferrying adrenalin-junkies to altitudes of
over 4500m for descents of up to 5km.
Trekking
Covered in mountains and lakes, Kyrgyzstan of-
fers unrivalled opportunities to take to the hills.
The areas around Bishkek, Karakol, Kochkor,
Naryn, Arslanbob and Sary-Chelek are the major
trekking regions, although any CBT oice will
suggest countless alternatives.
Border area permits are required to access
some of the most important mountaineering
areas, notably the Central Tian Shan (Khan
Tengri), Ak-Suu/Karavshin and Peak Lenin
regions. Agencies can organise these as part
of a package but many are increasingly reticent
to do so for non-guests. The cost is typically
around US$30 and agents advise leaving a
month for the processing, but some agents can
speed things up and have the documents within
a couple of days.

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
Exporting antiques is heavily restricted. If
you've bought anything that looks remotely old
and didn't get a certiicate saying it's not, you
can get one from the 1st loor of the Foreign
Department of the Ministry of Education,
Science & Culture (Map p234; % 62 68 17; Rm
210, cnr Tynystanov & Frunze, Bishkek)
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Whatever news reports might imply during the
country's very occasional riots and revolutions,
Kyrgyzstan is a pretty safe place to travel. For
those planning adventure activities in wild,
open mountainous spaces, precautions should
be obvious: be aware of rapidly changeable
weather patterns, extreme mountain terrain
and the easily under-estimated efects of
altitude sickness before setting of. Always let
someone know where you are going and when
you expect to be back.
¨

¨ Driving If possible before engaging a ride,
double check the road readiness of the vehi-
cle and the sobriety of your driver. Reputable
tour operators might charge slightly more but
have an image to maintain.
¨ ¨ Theft Kyrgyz cities are generally safe

but theft can happen, especially at night in
Bishkek and Karakol. Keep valuables locked in
your hotel and consider taking taxis if ventur-
ing out late.
¨

¨ Police Trouble Although generally limited
to a few annoying hotspots (Osh Bazaar in
Bishkek is one), travellers continue to report
shake-downs from corrupt cops wanting an
excuse to fine you or simply rifle through your
cash and reappropriate some of it. The best
approach is generally not to hand over your
passport to plain-clothes officers until you
have reached an official station, though in
reality this isn't always as easy as it sounds,
especially as legally you are supposed to
carry your passport at all times.
¨

¨ Flowers In country areas (including Sokuluk
Canyon) don't pick flowers, especially not the
pale-blue bell-shaped ones known as Issykul-
skiy Koren. Though attractive, this is in fact
aconitum soongaricum , a highly toxic variant
of wolfsbane which can cause fatal heart at-
tacks if the sap is ingested.
¨ ¨ Ticks Recent research suggests that life-

threatening strains of tick-borne encephalitis,
already present in Kazakhstan, have recently
become a potential danger in Kyrgyzstan. The
first recorded human fatality was bitten at
Ala-Archa in 2009. Tick-repellant and suitable
protective clothing are thus recommended if
walking and camping, especially during June/
July in long grass at around 2000m.