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rooms on the tatty fourth floor are depressing-
ly decrepit. Those on the third floor are sim-
ple but altogether more acceptable, though
the ones with ensuite bathrooms are already
starting to look unsightly. Stick to the 600som
twins as the shared bathrooms are relatively
decent on this floor. No top sheet.
Osh-Nuru¨ HOTEL $
( % 055-170 0450, 756 14; www.osh-nuru.kg; Bay-
alinov 1; economy s/d/lux 700/800/1350som,
renovated incl breakfast 1000/1300/3500som;
aW ; g 142) Unlike most of Kyrgyzstan's big,
concrete former-Soviet hotels, there are no
foreigner supplements here, the reception-
ist speaks some English and the renovated
rooms have been rebuilt to a very decent
standard. The unexciting 'economy' rooms,
however, have simply been re-wallpapered
and don't include breakfast so are a false
saving. Free wi-fi in lobby.
Eco¨House¨ gUESTHOUSE $$
( % 032-222 0945; guesthouse_osh@mail.ru; Lo-
monsov 25; s/tw/tr 1700/2000/2500som; aW ;
g 2) Popular with short-term business visi-
tors, this cosy, super-clean guesthouse has a
small veranda-breakfast room and garden.
The eight guestrooms are unusually well ap-
pointed with great hot showers, satellite TV,
free wi-fi, and some modest attempts to add
decorative touches (artificial flowers, leaf-
paintings, wall hangings).
Kristal¨Hotel¨ HOTEL $$
( % 054-397 6837, 783 61; Navoi 50a; s/d/ste
1800/2500/3500; aW ) Extremely handy for
both the bazaar and minibus station, the
well-kept rooms feel clean and fresh, albeit
in typical sickly pastel hues and with chif-
fon curtains. Abstract flower carpets, geyser,
fridge.
Deluxe¨Hotel¨ HOTEL $$
( % 782 61; Navoi 35; d with shared/private bath-
room 1000/2800som; W ) Pleasant, functional
newish hotel facing Kerechek Bazaar. The
three cheaper rooms share two toilets and
a shower.
TES¨Guesthouse¨ gUESTHOUSE $$
( % 573 43, 215 48; guesthouse@tes-centre.org; Say
Boyu 5; yurt-bed 500som, s/d without bathroom
1000/1800som, with bathroom 2000/3400som;
paiW ) TES is notable for its peaceful
garden setting where there are two-bedded
yurts rented out dorm-style (no lockers)
in summer. Rooms are faultlessly clean, if
staid and the public areas have oddments of
locally produced art. Help yourself to cof-
fee or tea in the pine-floored lounge where
breakfast is included. Laundry costs 150som
per load. AC in ensuite rooms. Camping (per
person 400som) includes breakfast, shower
and internet. English spoken.
If all of our recommendations are full, there
are plenty of other options:
Taj¨Mahal ( % 396 52, 055-573 9047; Zaina
Betinova; dm 300som, d 800-1000som) is a half-
hearted budget option close to Mira Home-
stay (p292).
Osh¨Guesthouse ( % Bahadir 055-861 9333,
Daniyar 077-237 2311, Farhad 055-009 3390; osh
guesthouse.ucoz.com; Masalieva 8/48, 3rd stairway,
top fl, apt 48; dm/s/d 290/690/840som; i ) , also
nearby Mira is a helpful, but preposterously
cramped, down-market option whose main
appeal is the owners' ability to organise fair-
value transport.
Hotel¨Pekin ( % 055-217 8090, 782 73; Navoi
11a; s/d/tr/lux 1400/1800/2400/3200som) Chi-
nese speakers will feel at home at this re-
cently repainted midrange option.
A new¨hotel¨complex - a big, six-storey
hotel - is under construction directly south
of Eco House.
5 ¨Eating¨&¨Drinking
Izyum¨ INTERNATIONAL, BAR $$
( % 055-111 9119; Lenin 214; breakfast dishes 50-
220som, small/large pizza from 180/230som,
mains 100-300som, beer/cocktails from
80/120som; h 8am-midnight, kitchen til 11pm; E )
Osh's most complete drinking/dining experi-
ence is a hit in summer for its riverside and
woodland tea/dining platforms, but it also
has a stylishly angular cafe with amply piled
cushions on wide sofa seats. Slightly spongy
pizza supplements sushi, steaks and local
food choices. Separated enough not to dis-
turb diners, the bar is stacked with back-lit
bottles. Dancing is possible as the evening
wears on.
Tsarskii¨Dvor¨ INTERNATIONAL, PUB $$
(Lenin; mains 180-350som, steak 500som, beer 70-
90som, cocktails 100-250som; h 11am-midnight,
kitchen til 11pm) This big ski-lodge-style log
chalet has heavy wooden throne seats, a rear
beer terrace and a range of barbecues, fish
dishes and sausages. There's a 20som cover
when musicians play (soft sax). Nightclub
behind.
Ala-Too¨ CENTRAL ASIAN $
(Masaliev 16A; mains 50-150som, shashlyk 50som;
h 8am-11pm) Cavernous, old-fashioned
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