Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
betjanov. Just east of where Mambetjanov
meets Jeenaliev on the north side of the
road is the park office for Sailmaluu Tash,
the region's most famous excursion desti-
nation. Directly east lie the Dom Kulturi
building, Kafe Dostuk and the shared taxi
stand. Hidden one block behind that is the
pitifully minimal bazaar.
4
¨Sleeping
Bakhtygul¨Chorobaeva¨¨
Homestay¨
HOMESTAY $
(
%
077-768 8803, 077-168 8803; Kadyrkulova 35;
B&B/dinner 500/250som)
Welcoming and
with unusually decent English spoken, Ba-
khtygul welcomes guests to her traditional
home, which is currently undergoing a major
rebuild.
Shirinkan¨Karmyshova¨¨
Homestay¨
HOMESTAY $
(
%
501 01, 077-361 4547; Kadyrkulova 36; B&B/
dinner 500/250som)
Welcoming family home-
stay with outdoor shower and toilet, which
are a bit of a hike through the extensive
orchard garden.
Bujumal¨Arykmoldoeva's¨
Homestay¨
HOMESTAY $
(
%
412 53; Bekten 36; B&B/dinner 500/250som)
Low-rise homestead with a rural feel, tea-bed,
small parking area and bathroom facilities in
the yard. Being the CBT coordinator's house,
this is often full while other homestays are
quiet.
5
¨Eating
Of a trio of cafes on Jeenaliev, our favourite
for food quality and variety is
Kafe¨Dostuk
(Jeenaliev; mains 60-90som;
h
8am-8pm)
beside
Dom Kulturi, though
Islam¨Ashkana
(Jee-
naliev; mains 70-100som;
h
9am-9pm)
has a co-
sier, better-lit decor and sits within one of
the town's funkiest buildings.
8
Getting¨There¨&¨Away
Remember that all access to the town may be
impossible in the winter months when snow
blocks the passes from both Jalal-Abad and es-
pecially from Naryn. At any time, double check
the road situation before setting of.
Road conditions permitting, one or two
shared taxis can usually be found for Jalal-
Abad (600som, four hours, summer only)
departing from Jeenaliev in front of the bazaar
between 7am and 11am. Cars for Bishkek
(1200som to 1500som, 12 hours) start from
across the road. Bishkek cars could drop you
in Naryn or Kochkor but the price will still be
1200som to 1500som. Naryn-speciic cars
(800som, ive hours) only leave a couple of
times a week. If you're in a hurry it's worth
budgeting for the worst-case scenario of hav-
ing to fork out for all four seats.
Note that if mooted plans gain the necessary
funding, a new all-weather road might be built
linking Kochkor to Jalal-Abad via Chayek, Aral
and Kazarman with a tunnel beneath the Kok-
Art pass. But don't hold your breath. The most
optimistic estimate for completion is 2017.
Sailmaluu Tash Саймалуу Таш
The several thousand 'embroidered
stones' of
Sailmaluu¨Tash
(foreigner/local
100/50som)
are Central Asia's most cel-
ebrated collection of petroglyphs. Over the
millennia Aryan, Scythian and Turkic peo-
ples have added to the earliest Bronze Age
carvings. The carvings are spread over two
slopes and depict hunting, shamanistic
rites and battle scenes, some dating back
more than 4000 years.
The very long day-trip to see the petro-
glyphs is strenuous and only feasible in
July and August, and then only on good
weather days. You start with a two-hour
4WD ride, then a steep five to six hour hike
in places through shoulder-high grass, in
others across a snow/ice field. The park
office (p283) in Kazarman, where the
admission tickets should be prepurchased,
can usually arrange the necessary guide
(1000som) and transfer (1000som for up
to four people) for next day departure, but
there's no spoken English here. At week-
ends try calling guide
Ataibek¨Kojoshov
(
%
077-917 4677)
directly. Kazarman's
English-speaking CBT (p283) can arrange
things for you, but prices are considerably
higher. Bring your own food. And consider
renting a horse (500som) and bringing a
tent in case you can't get back before dark.
8
Information
CBT
(
%
077-722 4063, 412 53; Bekten 36)
Contact coordinator Bujumal Arykmoldoeva at
her homestay (p283).
Sailmaluu Tash Park Office
(Monpekettik
zharalypish parky;
%
502 84; Jeenaliev 64;
h
9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) Located via the
second door in the building directly west of
Dom Kulturi. Can organise next-day trips to
Saimaluu Tash and collects the entry fee for the
park. No English spoken.
Ayyl Bank
(Kojaliev 83;
h
9am-noon & 1-4pm
Mon-Fri) The town's main bank has a Visa ATM
and changes US$ (but not euros).
