Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and Tuura-Su village at the west end of the
Kongur Ölön Valley. These well-maintained
camps offer solar-heated showers, guided
horse treks and cultural activities.
At Km59.7, some 28km west of Bokon-
bayevo, a very rough track takes surprisingly
large numbers of local tourists to Shor-Köl
(aka Tuz-Köl), a small lake so salty that one
floats, Dead Sea-style. An associated mud
bath adds to the fun. Some of the more at-
tractive roadside scenery in this area is
around appealing Bar-Bulak .
Song-Köl. It's a very special place, but don't
overlook the crucial fact that the lake is fro-
zen until late spring. Snow is possible year-
round and the signature yurts don't appear
until June, so timing is everything.
The main access hub for Song-Köl is Ko-
chkor (plus Jumgal/Kyzart) and, to a lesser
extent, Naryn, which is also a key staging
point en route to China using the very sce-
nic but bureaucratically awkward Torugart
Pass. Continuing from Kochkor or Naryn to
Kazarman and Osh is another summer-only
adventure with minimal transport on lonely,
scenic, but rough roads that close altogether
in winter.
The region's craftsfolk are famed for
producing Kyrgyzstan's best-quality felt
shyrdaks .
CENTRALKYRGYZSTAN
The mountainous heart of Kyrgyzstan offers
travellers unrivalled opportunities to ex-
plore jailoos on foot, horseback or by 4WD.
At every turn you will find a family offering
to put you up for the night or a group of
herdsmen who will eagerly invite you into
their yurt for a cup of tea and a bowl of fresh
kymys . Hospitality is heartfelt, but don't
be annoyed if they then sometimes ask for
money - NGOs have been persuading locals
that travellers should contribute!
The central gem around which the re-
gion's tourism revolves is mesmerising Lake
Lake Song-Köl
Озеро Сонг-Кель
Distantly ringed by a saw-toothed hori-
zon of peaks, the wide open landscapes of
Song-Köl create a giant stage for constant
performances of symphonic cloudscapes.
Almost 20km across, and fronted by lush
summer pastures, the lake's water colour
¨ You need to be properly equipped against the cold, which is severe at night, even in
summer.
¨ Give yourself plenty of time to acclimatise to the altitude.
Getting¨There¨&¨Away
Trekking agencies operating here include Ak-Sai (p246), Dotuck Trekking (p246), and
Edelweiss (p246) in Bishkek; Turketan (p263) and Alp Tour Issyk-Köl (p264) in Karakol;
and Kan Tengri (p68) in Almaty.
Ak-Sai organises a helicopter shuttle every three days or so from Karkara, so even those
who don't want to walk can ly right into the centre of the topographic grandeur, landing
at South Inylchek Base Camp where several companies have summer huts and camps. A
return light cots €350, or you can combine a one-way light with a hike in or out.
If you do trek there are two main options, both requiring agency support to guide you
over the treacherous glacier terrain on the later tages, keep you in supplies and let you
tay in its base camps. The longet but mot intereting route, typically taking seven or
eight wild days to reach the main Inylchek glacier, tarts from Jyrgalang, 70km eat of
Karakol. Chartering a 4WD to the police checkpot at Echkili-Tash (around ive hours' drive
from Karakol) saves about three days from this route.
Easier, but till hardly a troll, is driving to At-Jailoo camp at the base of Nansen Peak,
which leaves you jut 18km short of the Inylchek Glacier. It takes around two days from
At-Jailoo to Merzbacher meadow, a day more to the various base camps, though groups
often make a trekking ascent of Mt Diky (4832m) or Pesni Abaji (4901m) en route. For
those not wanting to carry camping gear, Ak-Sai has a series of pre-erected tents and huts
in trategic spots en route.
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