Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
7
¨Shopping
Bishkek has the country's best collection
of souvenirs and handicrafts, though you
might find individual items cheaper at their
source (notably
shyrdaks -
felt carpets - in
Kochkor).
The city's major markets are Osh Bazaar;
Alamedin¨Bazaar
(Jibek Jolu prospektesi, at Al-
matinskaya;
h
daily; trolleybus 7, 8, 9, 11)
, east of
the East Bus Station; and Dordoi, north of
town (trolleybus 4), which is full of Chinese
goods. None are especially exotic. Shopping
centres include the big, glitzy
Bishkek¨City
(Map p234; Kiev;
h
daily)
and
Vefa
(Map p240;
Soviet 200;
h
daily)
shopping malls and Sovi-
et-era
TsUM
(Map p234; Chuy 155;
h
daily)
.
Osh¨Bazaar¨
MARKET
(Map p234; Chuy 202;
h
partly closed on Mondays)
Though not visually exotic, Bishkek's most
central bazaar has a certain compulsive in-
terest and is an important city landmark.
For traditional Kyrgyz clothes, including
white imitation-felt
ak kalpak
hats (80som)
and colourful shepherds' chests find the
stalls
(Map p234; Osh Bazaar)
outside the
south tip of the bazaar's Khial building.
Saima¨
SOUVENIRS
(Map p234; Chuy 140;
h
10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Sells
textiles (including silk scarfs) plus post-
cards, souvenirs, toys and fridge magnets.
Iman¨
SOUVENIRS
(Map p234; Chuy 128;
h
10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Soviet medals and badges, horse-whips and
figurines.
Asia¨Gallery¨
ARTWORK
(Map p234;
%
62 45 05; Chuy 108;
h
10am-1pm &
2-5pm Mon-Sat)
The showroom/gallery of the
Kyrgyzstan Union of Artists is upstairs, in a
faded, once-grand, Stalin-era building which
also hides some artists' workshops.
Raritet¨
BOOKSHOP
(Map p234; Pushkin 78, basement, Dom Druzhby)
Postcards, basic maps and a mere handful
of English-language topics plus a museum
section and a sweet traditionally styled
chaikhana room. Descend the stairs from
the west side of the Dom Druzhby building.
Kyrgyz¨Oyu¨
SOUVENIRS
(Map p234; Chuy 134)
Leather, felt and terra-
cotta souvenirs from cute to kitsch. Post-
cards cost 20som.
Art¨Salon¨
SOUVENIRS
(Map p234;
%
31 11 29; Kiev 133;
h
9am-7pm Mon-
Fri, 9am-6pm Sat)
Kyrgyz knick-knacks supple-
mented by Russian matryoshka dolls, bark-
work boxes and earthenware figurines.
Atelier¨
CRAFT, SOUVENIRS
(Map p234; www.lamaisonduvoyageur.com; Moskva
122;
h
10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Crafts, especially
fabrics, many labelled with the artist's name
and the region they come from.
Tumar¨Art¨Salon¨
SOUVENIRS
(Map p234; www.tumar.com; Isanov 80-2)
Stylish-
ly presented, high-quality embroidery and
pottery, both modern and traditional. Credit
cards accepted.
GeoID¨
MAPS
(Map p234;
%
61 58 32; www.gosreg.kg; Kiev
107, Room 102;
h
8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri)
Sells Goskartografiya's excellent Bishkek
city maps/atlases (110/300som), as well as
1:100,000 trekking maps and 1:200,000 top-
ographicals (200som to 370som). Almost all
are in Cyrillic script. Phone two days ahead
to ensure your required map is brought up
from the storeroom. The entrance is on the
building's west side behind pseudo-historical
Russian restaurant Pirogoff-Vodkin.
Red¨Fox¨
OUTDOOR
(Map p240;
%
59 17 55; www.redfox.ru; Soviet
(Bayik-Baatyr) 65, basement;
h
9am-8pm)
Sells
camping supplies, mountaineering equip-
ment and brand-name hiking boots.
8
Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Bishkek smiles during the day but many streets
are unlit after dark and all the normal Central
Asian security rules apply: stick to main streets,
avoid the parks, and steer clear of the area
around the train station.
Crooked plain-clothed 'policemen' are a
problem in Bishkek, particularly at Osh Bazaar.
Some demand your passport and want to rile
through your bag and wallet with unfortunately
predictable results. Legally you are required to
carry your passport at all times but it's always
worth trying to give them only a copy, at least
until you reach a genuine police station. Try not
to be cajolled into an unmarked car or other
hidden corner.
If you have to leave your passport at an em-
bassy for visa purposes, ask the embassy to
stamp an explanation on a photocopy in case
you're questioned by 'real' police.
