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while all six have traditional-style ceilings.
The rooms share a lovely sitting room and
access to a superb roof terrace with great
Ichon Qala views. The breakfast is excellent
and real coffee is available too. Don't miss
the beautiful dining room, with an aivan -
style painted ceiling installed by the own-
er, a restoration master. Reservations are
usually essential.
o Hotel¨Xiva¨Atabek¨ B&B $
( % +998 919 984 242, 375 61 77; barnush@mail.ru;
islom hoja 68; s/d US$15/20; aW ) The full ren-
ovation of this one-time homestay has been
a great success, and the brand new rooms
are sparkling clean and bright. It's superbly
located in the middle of the Ichon Qala and
comes with a friendly family on hand to look
after you. Barno speaks very good English
and breakfast even comes with espresso -
true luxury in Khiva!
Lali-Opa¨ B&B $
( % 375 44 49; www.laliopa.com; Rahmonov 11A;
dm/s/d US$11/20/30; a ) This friendly little
guesthouse, located just a few steps outside
the West Gate, boasts the cheapest en suite
rooms in town. The dorms share facilities,
however, and rooms are fairly charmless,
but what it lacks in character it makes up for
in friendly service.
Hotel¨Isakhoja¨ B&B $
( % +998 622 977 726, 375 92 83; isaqjan02@mail.
ru; Tinchlik ko'chasi; s/d US$25/35; aW ) A solid-
value option located just outside the West
Gate. Rooms lack character, the wall-to-wall
carpeting is ageing and the bathrooms are
definitely a weak spot, but you could swing
a camel in what are certainly Khiva's largest
rooms. There are great views from the roof
terrace.
Mirzoboshi¨ B&B $
( % 512 27 53, 375 27 53; mirzaboshi@inbox.ru; Pahl-
avon Mahmud 1; dm/s/d US$15/20/30) This mud-
and brick-walled B&B is located right in the
heart of the Ichon-Qala across from Katya
the camel's lair; the entrance is around the
back. You essentially move in with the fam-
ily by occupying one of the two dorm rooms
(a double and a quad). For more privacy and
comfort but less traditional charm, opt for
their clean and modern annexe ( % 375 91 88;
Toshpolatov 24; s/d US$15/30; ai ) .
Islambek¨ hoTeL $
( % 375 23 46, 375 30 23; www.islambekhotel.nm.ru;
Toshpolatov 60; s/d/lux US$20/30/40; aW )
This 21-room place is a relative giant in the
tiny Ichon Qala, and while it's certainly lack-
ing the traditional charm of many of Khiva's
B&Bs, it's a good deal and well-situated. The
wallpapered rooms may make little attempt
to recreate the khanate, but they do have
traditionally carved wooden doors. Don't
miss taking tea on the roof, where the views
are fantastic.
Hotel¨Orient¨Star¨ hiSToRiC hoTeL $$
( % +998 943 152 600, 375 68 59; doniyoraa@ram
bler.ru; Pahlavon Mahmud 1; s/d US$60/80; aW )
This unique hotel offers you the fabulous
chance of staying inside the 19th-century
Mohammed Amin Khan Medressa. Accom-
modation in the 78 converted hujra (study
cells) is somewhat austere, but with cable
TVs, domed roofs and fancy stone bath-
rooms in place you need not live a complete-
ly hermit-like existence. Definitely Khiva's
most atmospheric hotel in the upper price
ranges: room 42 has the best views.
Shaherezada¨Khiva¨ BoUTiQUe hoTeL $$
( % 375 95 65; www.khivashaherezada.uz; islom
hoja 35; s/d/tr US$45/70/80; aW ) Very popu-
lar with tour groups and tirelessly cleaned
by a seemingly never-ending stream of
daughters, the Shaherezada is nevertheless
something of a let down on other fronts:
unreliable hot water supply, poor wi-fi sig-
nal and a generous if rather weird break-
fast spread mean that it's rather overpriced
for what it is. On the plus side, there's lots
of beautiful wood carvings, including the
memorable front door, which was hand-
carved in the workshop of the owner.
Malika¨Kheivak¨ hoTeL $$$
( % 375 76 10, 375 77 87; www.malikahotels.com;
islom hoja; s/d US$60/90; aW ) This 22-
room hotel in the heart of the Ichon Qala
is by far the most modern, amenity-laden
choice within the city walls, but it's pricey
and popular with tour groups. The pleasant
courtyard will look better when it's finally
planted, while all the furnishing and fittings
in the rooms are modern and stylish, with
wooden floorboards, good bathrooms and
flat screen TVs. The Malika chain has two
additional upmarket offerings just outside
the North and West gates.
5 ¨Eating¨&¨Drinking
Despite its ever-growing tourism industry,
Khiva has a poor selection of restaurants to
choose from. The chaikhanas in the Ichon-
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