Uzbekistan - Central Asia - page 199

Khiva
æ Top Sights

29 Hotel Orient Star .....................................B3

1 Kalta Minor Minaret.................................B3 30 Hotel Xiva Atabek ....................................C4

31 Islambek ...................................................D3

æ Sights

32 Lali-Opa .................................................... A2

2 Allakuli Khan Bazaar & 33 Malika Kheivak .........................................C4

Caravanserai ........................................ D3 34 Meros B&B ...............................................B2

3 Allakuli Khan Medressa.......................... C4 35 Mirzoboshi................................................B3

4 Anusha Khan Baths ................................ C4 36 Shaherezada Khiva .................................C5

5 Bazaar Entrance ..................................... D3
6 Camel Pen.................................................B3 ú Eating
7 East Gate.................................................. C4 37 Bir Gumbaz ..............................................B3

8 Ferris Wheel.............................................. B1 38 Chaixana Rustamboi............................... A3

9 Ichon-Qala Gates &Walls ...................... D3 Kheivak Restaurant....................... (see 33)

10 Isfandiyar Palace ..................................... A1 39 Khorezm Art Restaurant ........................C4

11 Islom-Hoja Medressa ............................. C4
12 Islom-Hoja Minaret ................................. C4 û Drinking & Nightlife
13 Juma Minaret .......................................... C3 40 Ekvator.......................................................A1

14 Juma Mosque.......................................... C4
15 Kheivak Well .............................................B2 ý Entertainment
16 Kuhna Ark .................................................B3 Fashion & Traditional Dance

17 Kutlimurodinok Medressa ..................... C3 Show .............................................. (see 3)

18 Mohammed Rakhim Khan
Medressa ...............................................B3 þ Shopping
19 North Gate ................................................C1 41 Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop ..................B4

20 Pahlavon Mahmud 42 Khiva Suzani Centre................................ B4

Mausoleum............................................B4
21 Sayid Alauddin Mausoleum....................B3 ï Information
22 South Gate................................................B5 43 Asia Hotel .................................................B5

23 Tosh-hovli Palace.................................... C3 44 Tourist Information Office ..................... B3

24 Watchtower ..............................................B2
25 West Gate .................................................B3 ï Transport
26 Zindon .......................................................B3 45 Morning Bus to Turkmen

Border ....................................................D2

ÿ Sleeping Shared Taxis to Urgench .............. (see 46)

27 Annexe ..................................................... C2 46 Trolleybus Stop for

28 Hotel Isakhoja...........................................A3

Urgench ................................................. C1

Ichon-Qala¨Gates¨&¨Walls¨ hiSToRiC SiTe
(2-day adult/student 25,000S/18,000S, camera
6500S; h ticket booth & sights 9am-6pm) You are
free to walk around the Ichon-Qala without
a ticket, you just won't be able to access (or,
technically, to photograph) any sights. The
North , East and South¨Gates are known
as, respectively, the Bogcha-Darvoza (Gar-
den Gate), Polvon-Darvoza (Strongman's
Gate) and Tosh-Darvoza (Stone Gate), but
the main ticket office can be found in the
twin-turreted West¨Gate (Ota-Darvoza, lit-
erally 'Father Gate', a 1970s reconstruction -
the original was wrecked in 1920), the main
entrance to the old city. One highlight for
which no ticket is needed is the walk along
the northwestern section of the wall. The
stairs - such as they are - can be found at
the North Gate. The 2.5km-long mud walls
date from the 18th century, and were rebuilt
after being destroyed by the Persians.

Kuhna¨Ark¨ FoRT
(watchtower admission 3000S; h 9am-6pm)
To your left after you enter the West Gate
stands the Kuhna Ark - the Khiva rulers'
own fortress and residence, first built in
the 12th century by one Ok Shihbobo, then
expanded by the khans in the 17th century.
The khans' harem, mint, stables, arsenal,
barracks, mosque and jail were all here.
The small, low-slung building to the left
of the entrance outside the main fortress,
on the east side of the building, is the Zin-
don (Khans' Jail), with a simple display of
chains, manacles and weapons, suggesting
how poor an idea falling foul of the Khan
would have been.
Once inside the Ark, the first passage to
the right takes you into the 19th-century
Summer¨Mosque - open-air and spectacu-
larly ornate with superb blue-and-white
plant-motif tiling and a red, orange and gold