Uzbekistan - Central Asia - page 196

TRAIN
From the brand new train station ( % 220 4223,
225 6111; Al-Khorezmi), there are daily over-
night trains to Tashkent ( platskartny/kupeyny
60,000/90,000S) departing Urgench at 3.10pm
and arriving in Tashkent at 10am the next morn-
ing. All Tashkent-bound trains also call at Samar-
kand ( platskartny/kupeyny 48,000/70,000S).
There is just one train per week to Bukhara
from Urgench ( kupeyny/SV 65,000/123,000S),
which leaves Urgench on Wednesday evening
and arrives in Bukhara at 9.30am Thursday.
There are also daily trains to Nukus ( kupeyny/SV
36,000/65,000S).
There are also regular connections from
Urgench to Dushanbe, Almaty, Moscow and St
Petersburg. other transit trains, such as the
Kungrad-Tashkent, St Petersburg-Tashkent and
Saratov-Tashkent trains, pass through Turtkul.
Buy tickets in the new kassa (ticket oice) in
front of the main station building.

US$35) , which is a tugai (trees, shrubs and
salt-resistant plants unique to Central Asia)
forest that's home to 91 bird species and 21
mammal species. It's just off the main road
about 60km north of Urgench. However, at
the time of writing, the central part of the
reserve, containing most of the flora and
fauna of interest including the Bukhara
Deer, was closed to visitors.

ELLIQ-QALA
There are about 20 forts which you can ex-
plore here today, and who knows how many
that have yet to be discovered (the 'Fifty
Fortresses' moniker is an approximation).
The most well-known qala is impressive,
mud-walled Ayaz-Qala , which is actually a
complex of three forts about 23km north of
Boston (Bustan). Its heyday was the 6th and
7th centuries. In its shadow is Ayaz-Qala¨
Yurt¨Camp ( % 8361-350 5909, 61-532 43 61; per
person US$25, meals US$10) , with several yurts
big enough to hold five to eight people, and
camel¨trekking (per hr US$10) available.
You can also hike down to tiny Ayaz kol
(lake), which is ringed by salt and has been
drained. Check whether you need to bring
your own food supplies before you head
here and bring a torch. Call ahead to reserve
yurts and camels, and to discuss transport
options. Tour groups often book out Ayaz-
Qala, especially for lunch. At other times
you're practically at one with the desert.
The oldest, most unique, and most
difficult-to-pronounce fort is circular Koy¨
Krylgan¨Qala , which archaeologists believe
doubled as a pagan temple and an observa-
tory complex. It was in use as early as the
4th century BC. Drivers will be reluctant to
take you here via the poor road from Beru-
ni; instead, drive south towards Turtkul
and turn north on a paved road towards the
mammoth Guldursun¨Qala , built as early
as the 1st century but in use until the Mid-
dle Ages. Koy Krylgan Qala is 18km east of
Guldursun Qala.
Two other not-to-be-missed qalas are
Toprak¨Qala and Kyzyl¨Qala , on opposite
sides of the road about 10km west of Bos-
ton. The former was the main temple com-
plex of Khorezm kings who ruled this area
in the 3rd and 4th centuries. Near the latter
you'll see local middle and high-school chil-
dren and university students working the
cotton fields in the autumn.

8 Getting¨Around
Marshrutka 19 runs from the train station to the
post oice via the bazaar. Marshrutka 3 and 13
go from the south side of the bazaar to the air-
port via Al-Khorezmi.

Around Urgench

Ancient Khorezm
The Amu-Darya delta, stretching from
southeast of Urgench to the Aral Sea, has
been inhabited for millennia and was an im-
portant oasis long before Urgench or even
Khiva were important. The historical name
of the delta area, which includes parts of
modern-day northern Turkmenistan, was
Khorezm.
The ruins of many Khorezmian towns
and forts, some well over 2000 years old, still
stand east and north of Urgench in southern
Karakalpakstan. With help from Unesco, lo-
cal tourism officials have dubbed this area
the 'Golden Ring of Ancient Khorezm'. The
area's traditional name is Elliq-Qala (Fifty
Fortresses).
For fans of old castles in the sand, this
is an area not to be missed. Outdoor and
nature enthusiasts will also find plenty to
do here, from scrambling among the qala
ruins, to camel trekking near Ayaz-Qala.
There is also the possibility of hiking in the
Badai-Tugai¨ Biosphere¨ Reserve (admis-
sion per person US$25, camping charge per person