Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
carved wooden front door is a maze connect-
ing several small buildings with new rooms
elaborately done up in old style. All rooms
have satellite TV and snazzy bathrooms with
fine tilework. The location is excellent, just
moments from Lyabi-Hauz.
Malikjon¨B&B¨House¨
B&B $$
(
%
224 50 50; malikjon_house@bk.ru; Sarrafon 9;
s/d/tr US$30/40/50;
aW
)
This pleasant 11
room courtyard hotel may not be the most
atmospheric of the lot, but it has simple,
clean rooms with attractively painted
ceilings and a terrace under traditional
beams.
Nasriddin¨Navruz¨
B&B $$
(
%
224 34 57; www.nasriddinhotel.com; Babahanov
37; s/d US$25/40;
a
)
This friendly, family-run
place is not a particularly traditional option
despite being found in the middle of the old
town. The rooms surround a small yard, and
it's a comfortable option for those on a tight
budget.
Minzifa¨
BoUTiQUe hoTeL $$$
(
%
224 56 28; www.minzifa.com; eshoni Pir 63; s/d
US$70/85;
aW
)
The ubiquitous local style is
faithfully on display at this superb courtyard
hotel, although the decor is toned down
by softer than usual colour schemes. It has
some of the friendliest service in town, ultra-
comfy oversized twin beds and 12 uniquely
decorated rooms with bamboo roofs and
dripping with
ghanch
. Bathrooms are large
(with tubs) and other comforts include TVs
and fridges.
Hotel¨Sultan¨
hoTeL $$$
(
%
224 2435; www.bukhara-sultanhotel.com; Ba-
khowuddin Nakshabandi 100; s/d US$80/108;
aW
)
You're paying for the prime location
here, directly in front of Lyabi-Hauz, and
this is definitely the best place in town to get
old town location combined with modern
comforts. Rooms are modern and not par-
ticularly large, but each has a small balcony,
and many of them open onto a traditional
Bukharan courtyard.
Grand¨Bukhara¨Hotel¨
hoTeL $$$
(
%
223 13 26; info@bukharatourist.com; Muminov
8; s/d from US$59/106;
paW
)
If you've had
enough of the local flavour and are looking
for Western-style luxury, this high-rise in
the new part of town has been transformed
from dusty monstrosity into a pillar of posh-
ness, with slick white duvet covers and a
bevy of amenities.
5
¨Eating
You don't go to Bukhara for the food, that's
for sure, though things have improved in
recent years. Many courtyard hotels offer
meals, and most offer these to non-guests,
so it's worth enquiring if you'd like to avoid
the tourist-heavy fare around Lyabi-Hauz.
For self-caterers there are farmers mar-
kets, including Kolkhoz Bazaar and the
morning-only Kukluk Bazaar, buried deep in
the Jewish Quarter.
o
Minzifa¨
iNTeRNATioNAL $$
(
%
224 61 75; Bakhowuddin Nakshabandi; mains
9000-20,000S;
h
11am-11pm;
vE
)
Still
Bukhara's most charming restaurant is this
perennially popular place with a fantastic
roof terrace on which to dine al fresco in
the summer months. There's also a cosy
and traditional dining room where live
piano music can often be heard. The menu
takes in Uzbek classics and also a range of
European dishes and is good for vegetar-
ians. The service is friendly and profes-
sional; reserve at least a day or two ahead
during high season.
o
Saroy¨
iNTeRNATioNAL $$
(Sarrafon; mains 8000-15,000S;
h
12.30-
11.30pm;
vE
)
A very welcome new addi-
tion to the eating scene, this restaurant
fronting Lyabi-Hauz is housed in a beauti-
fully appointed two-storey building with
both traditional and modern touches.
The large menu has plenty of vegetarian
choices among its tasty mains and the
well-trained, English-speaking staff are
helpful and friendly. We can heartily rec-
ommend the unfortunately named Beef
Jiz (fried beef with vegetables).
Lyabi-Hauz¨
UZBeK $$
(Lyabi-hauz; mains from 7000-20,000S;
h
9am-
11pm)
Dining al fresco around the vener-
able pool with grey-beards, local families
and (increasingly) plenty of other tourists
is the quintessential Bukhara experience.
There are two chaikhanas here, both serv-
ing shashlyk,
plov,
kovurma laghman
(with meat and tomato sauce) and cold
beer. There's also live music most evenings,
making this a pleasant spot for an evening
drink.
Chashmai¨Mirob¨
UZBeK $$
(hoja Nurabad ko'chasi; mains 6000-7000S;
h
10am-10pm, closed Nov-Mar;
E
)
It's known
more for its fabulous view of Mir-i-Arab
