Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Service is friendly and assured, and while
it caters largely to tourists, it's certainly
no trap.
Karimbek¨
UZBeK $$
(gagarin 194; mains 8000-20,000S;
h
8am-11pm;
E
)
This Uzbek theme restaurant remains
one of the most popular places for groups
and independent travellers alike. The na-
tional- and Russian-influenced cuisine can
be enjoyed in a variety of settings, from
private country hut to airy streetside patio.
A nightly belly-dancing show jiggles to life
around 8pm. It's a 3000S cab ride from the
centre of town.
Cafe¨Magistr¨
CAFe $$
(Bo'stonsaroy 30/45; mains 4000-8000S;
h
7.30am-11pm;
WE
)
Right in the heart of
the city, this bright, two-room cafe aimed
at students does the job just fine: you can
have everything from real coffee to a full
breakfast menu (3500-6000S) as well as
enjoy salads, burgers and pizza. There's
paid wi-fi.
Art¨Cafe¨Norgis¨
UZBeK $$
(Toshkent yo'li; mains 5000-8000S;
h
9am-
10pm;
WE
)
A handy place for lunch be-
tween the Registan and the Bibi Khanym
Mosque (and with stellar views of the
latter from the popular terrace), this 'art
cafe' is purely the haunt of tour groups,
but as the food is decent and there's noth-
ing else around, we've included it here.
The menu is made up of unexciting Uz-
bek standards, but a pleasant yoghurt and
spice side dish and piping hot fresh bread
are highlights.
Besh¨Chinor¨
UZBeK $$
(Temerchilar; mains 7000-25,000S;
h
9am-10pm)
Following a recent refit, this low-key and
traditional place is a great spot for
plov
,
manty
(steamed dumplings) or kebabs. It's
clean and friendly, though Russian is barely
spoken, let alone English.
No¨Name¨Café¨
iNTeRNATioNAL $$
(Cnr Mustakillik & Bo'stonsaroy ko'chasi; mains
6000-10,000S;
h
9am-11pm;
WE
)
This new
place may have a lurid green interior and
a TV blaring out Uzbek pop music, but
its menu makes for a pleasant change
from the normal fare on offer, and even
includes sushi (10,000-20,000S per set).
There's also a full breakfast menu and wi-
fi available through access cards you can
purchase.
Alt¨Stadt¨Laghman¨Centre¨
UYghUR $$
(Navoi 49; laghman 10,000-30,000S;
h
11am-
11pm)
Wash down traditional
laghman
and other Uyghur specialities with afford-
able unfiltered homebrew on a pleasant
people-watching terrace behind Cinema Sa-
markand. Avoid the rather dark and dank
interior.
Blues¨Cafe¨
BAR
(Amir Timur 66; mains 10,000-20,000;
h
1-11pm)
A surprisingly tasteful and low-lit bar
deep in the Russian old town, Blue Cafe no
longer has live music, but that may change
(a forlorn piano stands in memory of a hap-
pier time). Instead there's an '80s sound-
track, real coffee, a full menu and cocktails
to be had.
7
¨Shopping
There are souvenir shops and craft work-
shops of varying quality at all the big sights,
in particular at the Rukhobod Mausoleum
and the Registan. There are also several
noteworthy antique shops in Tilla-Kari Me-
dressa and one in Sher Dor Medressa, but
textile and
suzani
buffs are better off going
to Urgut. Multilingual Bobir has a tradi-
tional musical instrument shop in Sher Dor
Medressa, and gives spontaneous concerts,
while accomplished miniaturist Mansur
Nurillaev, who makes miniatures of build-
ings of Samarkand, is worth a visit at the
Rukhobod Mausoleum.
Samarkand¨Ceramics¨¨
Workshop¨
CeRAMiCS
(Tilla-Kari Medressa;
h
9am-6pm)
At the
Registan look out for the Samarkand
Ceramics Workshop, one of the few places
still practising the Samarkand school of
ceramic-making.
Samarkand-Bukhara¨¨
Silk¨Carpets¨Showroom¨
CARPeTS
(Sher Dor Medressa;
h
8am-7pm)
Samarkand-
Bukhara Silk Carpets has a Registan-based
showroom with its trademark high-quality
woven silk tapestries and
suzani
carpets on
display.
Siob¨Bazaar¨
MARKeT
(
h
7am-7pm)
Around and behind Bibi-
Khanym, the frenetic, colourful main market
Siob Bazaar is a great place for vegetarians
and photographers, and may reward silk
and souvenir hunters as well. You can also
change money here, on the far side of the
market near Rudaiky, the main road.
