Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dilshoda¨
gUeSThoUSe $$
(
%
231 03 18, 235 03 87; dil_servis@mail.ru; oksa-
roy 150; s/d/tr US$26/49/56;
a
)
Set in the
shadow of Gur-e-Amir, this B&B serves up
warm, if basic, rooms with narrow beds and
tiny bathrooms. However, there's a tantalis-
ing view from the first floor balcony and
the chipper host family serves up mouth-
watering three-course dinners (US$8.50) on
request. There's a second, far more modern
property around the corner should this one
be full.
Malika¨Prime¨
hoTeL $$$
(
%
233 01 97, 233 43 49; www.malika-samarkand.
com; Bo'stonsaroy; s/d US$60/80;
aiW
)
The
best of the Malika chain's two Samarkand
hotels is well situated between the old and
new towns. The highlight is the roof-deck
terrace overlooking the Gur-e-Amir next
door. While the 22 rooms themselves are
nothing special, being somewhat dark and
anonymous compared to the property's
promising exterior, they do have impressive
ceilings and are comfortable and spacious.
The hotel is very popular with tour groups.
Registon¨Hotel¨
hoTeL $$$
(
%
233 5590; Ulugbek 16; s/d US$65/85;
aWs
)
The Registon looks good with spacious
rooms that have fridges and decent bath-
rooms, although they can hardly be said
to be bursting with character. There's wi-fi
downstairs in the lobby, and you're in the
Russian town, a fair walk from the sights,
but better located for shopping and dining
options.
Registan¨Plaza¨Hotel¨
hoTeL $$$
(
%
233 40 86, 233 24 75; www.uzhotelpresident.
com; Shohruh 53; s/d US$100/150/190;
aWs
)
The rebranded former Hotel President is
currently the smartest property in town,
although several total refurbishments of
other hotels will probably change this soon
enough. The vast lobby here is impressive,
if somewhat sterile, and the 165 rooms are
large, comfortable but characterless, though
they have good bathrooms, minibars and ca-
ble TV and the location is excellent.
Hotel¨Ark¨Samarkand¨
hoTeL $$$
(
%
235 69 41; www.ark-samarkand.uz; Penjikent
9; d/tr/q US$45/85/90;
a
)
With its fantastic
location near the Registan and renovated,
comfy rooms, this place is a good choice,
though it's on the pricey side for what it
offers, and bathrooms can be rather small.
There's a second location with similar stand-
ards and prices further down the road if the
main hotel is full.
5
¨Eating¨&¨Drinking
Most restaurants are in the newer Russian
part of town, far removed from the tour-
isty Registan area, where there's a dearth
of choice. Samarkand is distinctly quiet at
night, but there are a few places that stay
busy after sundown.
Supermarket¨Aziz
(Pochta 6;
h
8am-8pm)
is Samarkand's best-stocked supermarket.
Cafe¨Labig'or¨
UZBeK $
(Registan; mains 3000-6000S;
h
8am-11pm)
The
best of the numerous choices across from
the Registan, this two-floor restaurant has
a pleasant and breezy upstairs terrace that's
often as busy with locals and the squawks of
peacocks as it is with travellers. The menu is
oral only (the young staff speak some Eng-
lish), but focuses on the usual Uzbek stand-
ards. The
lulya kebab
(minced lamb and
herb kebab) was excellent when we visited.
Kyzyl¨Chaixona¨
ChAiKhANA $
(Siob Bazaar; 2500-5000S;
h
7am-7pm)
The
clean 'red teahouse' within the confines of
Samarkand's main market has a pleasant
outdoor area and low, low prices. Expect
somsa
(samosa), shashlyk and soups amid
the chaotic atmosphere of the market
traders.
o
Platan¨
iNTeRNATioNAL $$
(Pushkin 2; mains 7000-11,000S;
h
10am-11pm;
WvE
)
Possibly the best restaurant in
Samarkand, Platan has a gorgeous sum-
mer terrace for shady al fresco dining in
the summer months, while inside there's
a choice of two dining rooms, one of
which is on the noisy side and favoured
by tour groups while the other has white
tablecloths and a rather classier feel. The
menu, which includes Arabian-, Thai- and
Egyptian-style meat dishes, is no less char-
ismatic, and the salad menu is extraordi-
nary in its variety: try the excellent
lobio
,
a Georgian bean, walnut, garlic, lemon and
parsley salad, or the equally tasty coleslaw
and apple-based 'Diet Salad'.
Old¨City¨
iNTeRNATioNAL $$
(Abdurahmon Jomi 100/1; mains 8,000-20,000;
h
10am-11pm)
This charming place in the
centre of the Russian part of town is highly
recommended for its long and interesting
menu that takes in everything from lo-
cal dishes to Russian and Italian cuisine.
