Uzbekistan - Central Asia - page 170

With a preponderance of pigeons and an
eerie crypt in the basement, this is the place
to film your horror movie. It's an easy walk
from the Old Town - follow Suzangaran
ko'chasi from the Registan and then at the
very end turn left onto Andijon ko'chasi.
Hodja¨Abdi¨Darun¨Mausoleum¨ MAUSoLeUM
(Sadriddin Ayni) Across the street from
Ishratkhana Mausoleum is the Hodja Abdi
Darun Mausoleum, which shares a tranquil,
shady courtyard with a mosque and a hauz
(artificial stone pool).
Imon¨Mosque¨ MoSQUe
( h dawn-dusk) This small, 19th-century Imon
Mosque has an open porch, tall carved col-
umns and a brightly restored ceiling. The
mosque is located between two streets,
Air Kushchi and Suzangaran. Respectfully
dressed visitors are always welcome.
Hoja-Nisbatdor¨Mosque¨ MoSQUe
The lovely Hoja-Nisbatdor Mosque, on Su-
zangaran near Andijon ko'chasi, has a large
aivan embraced by walls inlaid with beauti-
fully restored ghanch (carved alabaster).
Hovrenko¨Wine¨Factory¨ MUSeM
( % [phone]; Mahmud Kashgari; tast-
ing 16,000S per person, museum admission free;
h 9am-6pm Apr-oct) Wine tasting tours that
take in a range of 10 locally produced wines,
balzams and cognacs are possible at the
Hovrenko Wine Factory, in a converted 19th-
century Jewish industrialist's house. The
small attached museum has no signage in
English, but you're welcome to look around
even if you're not doing a tasting. Call ahead
to ensure there's availability.
T ¨Tours
The going rate for trained guides is US$35
per day, or US$5 per hour. Your hotel will
almost certainly be able to hook you up with
someone trusted and experienced, but the
following are recommended:
Farruh¨Bahronov¨ gUiDe
( % [phone], 235 00 98; faruhb@yahoo.
com) Farruh offers tours in English and
French, as well as running his own travel
agency, Abask Travel, that can organise eve-
rything from accommodation and visas to
transport services, and cultural and eco tours.
Valentina¨Belova¨ gUiDe
( % 241 88 07) The grand dame of Samar-
kand's guides. Speaks English.

Daulet¨Negmadjanov¨¨ gUiDe
( % [phone], 237 34 76; daulat63@mail.
ru) A charming and knowledgeable English-
speaking driver and guide to Samarkand
and the surrounding area. He has his own
car, and provides reliable and affordable
services.
Denis¨Vikulov¨ gUiDe
( % [phone]; [e-mail]) Of-
fers tours in English and Russian, and offers
transfers and tours to other cities with his
car.
z ¨Festivals¨&¨Events
During Samarkand's Navrus¨ Festival
you'll find dancing, live music and other
performances, and fireworks in Navoi Park.
Ask travel agencies or tour guides about the
annual Navrus kupkari (Tajik: buzkashi;
traditional polo-like game played with a
headless goat carcass) match in Urgut or
Koshrabot.
The city is also home to the Sharq¨
Taronalari (en.sharqtaronalari.uz) classical
Oriental music festival, held every other
year (next in August 2015 and 2017) on the
Registan.
4 ¨Sleeping
Samarkand's B&Bs aren't quite up to
Bukhara's lofty standards but are preferable
to the tour group-laden hotels.
o Jahongir¨B&B¨ B&B $
( % [phone], 235 78 99; www.
jahongirbandb.com; Chirokchi 4; s/d/tr/q
US$35/45/65/75 s/d with shared bathroom
US$28/38; W ) This charming place in an
old town neighbourhood unaltered by Sa-
markand's relentless modernisation has
two courtyards sprinkled with vines and
flowers and a selection of comfortable
and inviting rooms. Each is equipped with
a fridge and some have a TV, while bath-
rooms are modern. Highly recommended.
B&B¨Davr¨ B&B $
( % [phone], 235 47 48; davrhotel@
mail.ru; Ali Kushchi 43; s/d/tr US$20/40/60;
W ) Tucked away in an unchanged old
town neighbourhood, the Davr gets great
feedback and it's easy to see why. Staff
are helpful, the rooms are clean and have
surprisingly elaborate ceilings, and din-
ners in the 19th-century house next door
are highly recommended. Rooms are fan-
cooled.