Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
NODIRA
Of the patiche of colourful characters to have emerged from Fergana Valley lore over
the years, perhaps the mot beloved was the beautiful poetess Nodira (1792-1842), wife
of Umar Khan of Kokand. When Umar died in 1822, his son and successor, Mohammed
Ali (Madali Khan), was only 12 years old. The popular Nodira took over as de facto ruler
of the khanate for the better part of a decade, turning Kokand into an artitic hotbed
and oasis of liberalism in a region accutomed to saditic despots.
Unfortunately, little of this liberal spirit rubbed of on Madali, who developed a reputa-
tion for ruthlessness during a successful campaign to expand the khanate's borders. His
territorial ambitions drew the ire of the notorious Emir Nasrullah Khan of Bukhara. Nas-
rullah would eventually get the upper hand in this battle, and in 1842 he seized Kokand
and executed Madali, his brother and, when she refused to marry him (or so the tory
goes), Nodira. Within three months the Emir's troops would be forced out of Kokand,
touching of a battle for succession that would ultimately result in the rise to power of
Khudayar Khan, a ditant cousin of Madali.
Bet known for her poetry (in both Uzbek and Tajik), Nodira remains as popular as
ever today, as evidenced by the preponderance of Uzbek women named Nodira.
Hotel¨Khudayarkhan¨
hoTeL $$
(
%
553 77 47, 552 22 44; www.khan.uz; istiklol 31;
s/d US$33/59;
aW
)
By far the best option in
town, the family-run Khudayarkhan (some-
times simply called Hotel Khan) exhibits an
unusual amount of panache for Uzbekistan.
Little extras such as felt slippers, free bot-
tled water and flat-screen TVs make all the
difference. Rooms are modern, stylishly
furnished and have good bathrooms with
high water pressure. Request a quieter room
away from the main road.
Rohatbahsh¨Chaikhana¨
TeAhoUSe $
(imom ismoil Bukhori 1; shashlyk 2000S;
h
8am-
8pm)
This popular chaikhana (teahouse),
also known as Jahon Chaikhana, tends to
close earlier than advertised, but during
daylight hours it's the best option in town.
Capriz¨
CAFe $$
(imom ismoil Bukhori 1; mains 5000-11,000S;
h
8am-10pm)
Clean premises and a menu
of Russian and Uzbek staples makes this
Kokand's best all-around eating option. We
can heartily recommend the
prazhskaya
kotleta
(Prague cutlet: fried beef with eggs
and cheese).
Com.net
(İstanbul 8; per hr 1800S;
h
9am-
11pm) The most centrally located and best
equipped of several internet cafes in town.
Internet Club
(Navoi 1; per hr 1600S;
h
8am-midnight)
8
Getting¨There¨&¨Around
Transport to points within the Fergana Valley
leave from the bus station by Dekhon Bazaar on
Furqat. Shared taxis head to Fergana (10,000S,
1¼ hours) and Andijon (15,000S, two hours).
Marshrutkas cover the same routes, while buses
run throughout the day until 6.30pm to Fergana
(5000S, two hours) and Andijon (10,000S, four
hours). Regular buses to Rishton (2500S, 45
minutes), leave from the Yaangi Bazaar, 2km
east of the main bus station.
Shared taxis to Tashkent congregate at what's
known to locals as 'Pitak Tashkent' about 5km
north of town (20,000S, four hours). A taxi to
here from the centre of Kokand will cost you
3000S.
From the
train station
(Amir Timur 40), there
is a 5am train to Andijon via Namangan, and
a 2.30pm train to Andijon via Margilon (both
3000S, ive hours).
Useful public transport options include
marshrutka 2 or 4 from Dekhon Bazaar to the
hotel Kokand area, and marshrutka 15, 28 or 40
north from the bazaar to the Jami Mosque.
8
Information
Black market money changers hang out at
Dekhon Bazaar (the main farmers market), near
the bus station. oViR's Kokand oice does not
handle foreigner registrations; register in Fer-
gana if you're not staying in a hotel here.
Asaka Bank
(istiklol ko'chasi;
h
9am-5pm
Mon-Fri) Advances cash on MasterCard.
Fergana (Farg'ona)
%
73 / POP 216,000
Tree-lined avenues and pastel-plastered
tsarist buildings give Fergana the feel of a
mini-Tashkent. Throw in the best services
and accommodation in the region, plus a
