Uzbekistan - Central Asia - page 142

here than elsewhere in the country. You're
likely not to be accepted as a guest in many
places if you don't have all your registration
stamps ready for inspection, so be sure your
paperwork is in order!
o Gulnara¨Guesthouse¨ gUeSThoUSe $
( % [phone], [phone]; gulnara
[e-mail]; ozod 40; dm US$15, s without/
with bathroom US$20/30, d US$35/45; aW ;
m Chorsu) Gulnara's is the pick of the budget
bunch in Tashkent. There's a friendly fam-
ily atmosphere in the lovely courtyard and
the addition of four new rooms and fresh
coats of paint on everything inspire confi-
dence. The shared bathrooms are very clean
and extras such as a laundry service, book
exchange and hearty breakfasts make this
an understandably popular choice. The loca-
tion in the Old Town is also good, with the
metro a short walk away. English is spoken.
Mirzo¨Guesthouse¨ gUeSThoUSe $
( % [phone], [phone]; www.
turkturizm.uz; Sagban 95; r without/with bathroom
per person US$15/20; aW ; m Chorsu) After a
recent renovation, Mirzo Guesthouse has
come out in very good shape, with redone
bathrooms, new mattresses and constant
hot water. The historic building features
gorgeous carved wooden ceilings, a court-
yard full of roses and there's tonnes of eth-
nographic knick-knacks on display to boot.
Loquacious owner Mirzo, an eccentric his-
torian, likes to play the dutar (two-stringed
guitar) and his son speaks excellent English.
Komnata¨Otdykha¨ hoSTeL $
(olish Xonasi; % inside train station 299 72 29, out-
side train station 299 76 49; inside train station s/d
US$30/36, outside train station dm/d US$14/32;
m Toshkent) There are two accommodation
options at Tashkent's main train station, one
inside the station itself (meaning you'll need
to pass through security each time you en-
ter) and one that is accessible from the street
outside. The property outside the station has
six-bed dorms, as well as a double 'lux' room.
Inside the station all rooms are 'lux', mean-
ing they have their own bathrooms. Not a
bad budget option - the rooms are clean and
bright and staff are vaguely friendly. Note
that tenancy in all rooms runs from 8am to
8am and that breakfast is not included.
Hotel¨Xadra¨ BUDgeT hoTeL $
( % 244 27 13; gafur gulom 53A; s/d with bathroom
US$15/39, s/d shared bathroom US$10/25; m ga-
for galom) Once the darkest hole in all of Cen-

tral Asia, these budget digs border on the
liveable these days, although they still draw
plenty of shady characters. Rooms with
bathrooms also have TV and air con, while
the cheapest rooms have no such luxuries.
Reception (such as it is) is on the 2nd floor.
Breakfast not included.
Hotel¨Ideal¨ hoTeL $$
( % 254 70 77, 254 17 29; [e-mail]; Be-
shyogosh 96; s/d US$46/58; aW ; m Toshkent)
This welcome addition to Tashkent's sleep-
ing scene is a little out of the way, but of-
fers clean, cosy and pleasant rooms and has
friendly English-speaking staff. Add on an
extra US$15 per room for breakfast and wi-fi
to be included. The cheapest standards are
attic rooms with sloping ceilings, while the
pricier ones are very spacious.
Turkiston¨Hotel¨ hoTeL $$
( % 239 18 21; www.turkistonhotel.uz; Yunus Rajabiy
64; s US$40-50; d US$50-60; aWs ; m Kosmon-
avtlar) Nestled in a sleepy and leafy residen-
tial area of central Tashkent, this musty old
classic offers good value. Rooms are rather
on the small side, and bathrooms are show-
ing their age, but it's pleasant enough.
Grand¨Tashkent¨ hoTeL $$
( % 255 05 99; www.grand-tashkent.com; Abdulla
Kahhor Lane Vi; s/d/tw/tr US$48/53/58/65;
naW ; m Toshkent) The name may be a to-
tal misnomer, but this midrange place offers
decent value. Its standard rooms are fine,
if rather small, while its improved rooms
(around US$10 extra) all come equipped
with bath tubs, fridges, wooden ceilings and
plenty of daylight.
Grand¨Orzu¨Hotel¨ hoTeL $$
( % 120 88 77; [e-mail]; Tarobi 27; s/d
from US$50/60; paWs ; m Toshkent) This
self-contained place within a pleasantly
green residential neighbourhood boasts a
pool and pleasant restaurant out the back.
Rooms are very forgettable, but reasonably
priced for what they offer.
Sam¨Buh¨Elite¨Hotel¨ hoTeL $$
( % 120 88 21, 120 88 26; sambuh.hotel@gmail.
com; ivliev 14; s/d US$47/72; ai ; m oybek)
The name is something of a misnomer for
these rather sordid-feeling quarters off a
residential backstreet. Foreign guests are
assigned the 'improved' rooms, and they
are fine, with fridges and ok bathrooms,
although some came with rather strange
smells when we visited.