Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The golden eagle on Kazakhstan's flag is a
good omen for ornithologists. Hundreds of
bird species are to be seen, from the para-
dise flycatchers of Aksu-Zhabagyly and the
flamingos and sociable lapwings of Kor-
galzhyn to the relict gulls of Lake Alakol.
many hotels ofer discounts of up to 50% if you
occupy the room for no more than 12 hours, a
period known as a
pol-sutki
. But bizarrely, some
hotels charge you for making an advance reser-
vation. most of the time you can get a room in
any accommodation place you want, but a reser-
vation will at least give you peace of mind when
arriving in a strange town. Some midrange and
top-end places may ill up if there's is a congress
or similar event in town.
Another economical, often free, option, and a
great way to meet locals, is accommodation in
private homes through networks such as
Couch-
suring
(www.couchsuring.org), which is well
represented in Kazakhstan.
ACTIVITIES
The mountain regions abutting the Kyrgyz,
Chinese and Russian borders ofer the greatest
outdoor excitement. In the south and southeast
there's good hiking, mountain biking and horse
riding in the Zailiysky Alatau near Almaty,
and at Kolsay Lakes, Aksu-Zhabagyly Nature
Reserve and Sayram-Ugam National Park.
Ust-Kamenogorsk is the gateway to a moun-
tainous northeastern area full of adventurous
possibilities, culminating in the beautiful Altay
mountains. Exciting biking, hiking and riding
among Kazakhstan's central steppes and hills
are ofered by Karaganda-based Nomadic Travel
Kazakhstan (p110).
Ascents of mt Belukha in the Altay, and Khan
Tengri and other peaks in the central Tian Shan,
are superb challenges for climbers in July and
August. In winter skiers and snowboarders
enjoy Central Asia's best facilities at the modern
Chimbulak resort near Almaty.
Rafters can tackle the Chilik or Ili rivers
out of Almaty and several rivers out of Ust-
Kamenogorsk.
Kazakhstan is an emerging bird-watching des-
tination, lying on early-summer migration routes
from Africa, India and the middle East to Siberia,
with hundreds of species to be seen. The moun-
tains south of Almaty and the deserts northwest
of the city are good areas, as are the Aksu-
Zhabagyly and Korgalzhyn nature reserves.
CUSTOM REGULATIONS
Customs declaration forms don't need to be
illed on entering the country unless you're
carrying goods above normal duty-free limits.
Up to US$3000 cash in any currency can be
taken in or out of the country without a written
declaration.
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
Kazakhstan Embassies in Central Asia
Kazakhstan has embassies in Tashkent, Uz-
bekistan (p222); Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan (p307);
Ashgabat, Turkmenistan (p401); and Dushanbe,
Tajikistan (p364).
Environmental Issues
Kazakhstan is still grappling with the fear-
ful legacy of Soviet exploitation and mis-
management. The Aral Sea catastrophe (see
box p92 and also p459) is well known, and
the country also continues to suffer from
the fallout, literal and metaphorical, of So-
viet nuclear tests, conducted mainly near
Semey. Industrial air pollution continues at
high rates in most of the Soviet industrial
centres including Ust-Kamenogorsk, Kara-
ganda, Ekibastuz and Kostanay.
The development of Kazakhstan's oil
reserves in and near the Caspian Sea is
adding to concerns for the world's larg-
est lake. Nearly 1500 oil wells lie within
reach of Caspian storm surge floods, and
there have already been leaks from wells
submerged by the sea's 3m rise since the
1970s (the Caspian's level oscillates peri-
odically, as a result, it's thought, of climatic
factors). There are fears that the giant off-
shore Kashagan field, due to start pumping
by 2014, could put paid to the last natural
breeding ground of the beluga (white) stur-
geon, source of the world's best caviar, and
threaten the breeding grounds of the en-
dangered Caspian seal, one of the world's
smallest seals.
SURVIVAL GUIDE
8
Directory¨A-Z
ACCOMMODATION
All Kazakhstan cities have a broad range of
hotels, from basic (but usually clean) to com-
fortable modern establishments. Prices are high
for Central Asia: you'll rarely get a double with
private bathroom for under 5000T (US$33),
or much comfort or style for less than 10,000T
(and double that in Almaty or Astana). But
backpacker hostels with dorm beds for 2000T
to 2500T have made a welcome appearance in
Almaty and Astana.
In some areas near national parks or nature re-
serves, there are good homestay or guesthouse
options at around 4000T to 6000T per person
with meals included.
