Senegal - The Lions on the Road: Cycling London to Cape Town - page 85

Chapter 8: Senegal
The immigration authorities in Senegal were very kind and whisked me through in
no time. I left the launch and was quickly on my way to St. Louis. One contrast between
the two countries which was immediately apparent was the vegetation. InMauritania, it was
mostly sand with very little greenery up to the River Sénégal and then, just on the river's
southern shore, there was greenery everywhere.
Shortly after leaving the immigration area, I felt a stirring in my stomach signalling
metofindabathroom.Normally,Iwouldlookforadiscreetplacenearsometreesorbushes
away fromthe main road.However,there was no time…not even tosafely stopthe bike and
lay it gently on the ground. I dismounted my bike as it was slowing down and let it drop. I
had less than a second to get my cycling shorts down. I didn't care that I was next to a busy
road. Talk about a close call! Too much camel milk I think.
An Unexpected Welcoming
I resumed my cycling into very difficult headwinds and only managed 28 kilometres
before sunset. I came upon a settlement on the left side of the road and asked if they spoke
English orFrench. Since they spoke neither,Iused hand signals to ask if Icould sleep there.
They nodded a yes (at least I thought it was a yes.)
I moved my bike beside a hut and quickly unpacked my air mattress and sleeping
bag. I changed out of my cycling clothes and laid them on the bike to air dry. I pulled out
somefoodfrommypanniersandsatonmymattresstoeat.Withthesoundsofconversations
from inside the hut as background, I took out my journal to write in solitude. As I began to
fall asleep, Ousmane Bâ, a 12-year old boy who just arrived at the settlement, came up to
me and asked me in French if I wanted some coffee. I snapped out of my drowsiness and
quicklyaccepted. Heleftandquicklyreturnedwithakettle ofboiledwater andajarofNes-
café.Isatonmymattressashemademeacupofcoffeeandwechatted.After45minutesor
soofdeepconversation,hismothercameoutofherhomeandwalkeduptous.Shesignaled
for me to get up (in hand gestures) and did another gesture which I was unsure of. The son
explained that she wanted me to stay in her home with her family. I quickly repacked my
things on the bike, wheeled it over and leaned it next to her home.
On the outside, the structure seemed ready to collapse. But, appearances were de-
ceiving.Itwasveryspaciousandcozyinside.WecontinuedtalkingandOusmanetranslated
everything I said to his family. Soon, food came, then music, then family photos, and then