Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
I was jolted awake at around 2:00 a.m. by a heated argument between Mohammed
andalocalshepherd.IonlycaughtsomeoftheArabicwordsbutnotenoughtomakesense
of it all. I did know it was about me due to the simple observation that the shepherd was
pointing at me and yelling. As it quieted down, the shepherd retreated into the darkness of
the desert as Mohammed came over to me. I asked him what was wrong and he said that
the shepherd was extremely angry that a non-Muslim was in the tent and demanded that I
leave. Mohammed began to argue with him in my defence saying that it was by the grace
of Allah that this non-Muslim came to us and that, in Allah's eyes, he should be accepted
as a brother. Thanks bro.
Before saying good night and returning to his friends, Mohammed told me to just
excuse the shepherd as a simple man and not to take him seriously. I, on the other hand,
did take his anger seriously for I didn't know if he was fanatical. I went back to my resting
spot and tried to go back to sleep. Since I was laying at the back edge of the tent, a fear
grew in me that this shepherd would plunge a knife into me through the tent and flee. With
the noise from the students and my growing concern of this shepherd, I couldn't sleep. I
simply laid there with one eye open and waited for the sun to rise.
There was no knife attack and I never saw the shepherd in the morning. I quickly
put my things in order and after exchanging addresses with Mohammed, I gave him a Ca-
nadian lapel pin. I hopped on the bike and began my journey for my first African border
crossing at Rosso.
Experiencing African Hospitality
I arrived just after 11:00 a.m. in Rosso and made my way to the River Sénégal to
catch the ferry. The ferry, which was really a small barge, was leaving its dock just as I
arrived at the river. I stopped at the closest shop to ask when the next barge was to cross.
The shopkeeper said at 5 pm which gave me six hours to entertain myself. I purchasing
some milk and bread for an early lunch and ate outside his shop. Afterwards, I strolled to
the ferry office to confirm the departure time. I was happy to hear that the next crossing
was actually at 3:00.So,Iboughtmyticket andtried toconvert myremaining Mauritanian
money (ougiya) to Senegalese currency (CFA). The border official said that I did not qual-
ify to exchange money because I did not spend enough on a daily basis in Mauritania.
I had 2300 Ougiyas to spend and pondered on what I should buy. I decided to buy
something practical: a one-piece pyjama. The first shop I entered didn't sell pyjamas but
theownerinvitedmetorestfromtheheatinthebackofhershop.Itookherupontheoffer
andcameintoabeautifullivingroomwhereonesidewascompletelyopentotheoutdoors.
There were large cushions everywhere which her children used to lay on as they watched
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