Travel Reference
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gears.Ipressedonanywayandcontinuedpastafewpolicecheckpoints.Aroundlunchtime
I came to an abandoned police checkpoint on my left- a small stone building with several
windows and no door. I decided to eat lunch there and all of a sudden felt very drowsy. As
I sat there in the shade with a full stomach and a cool breeze traveling from the ocean, I
couldn't resist and ended up taking a nap for an hour.
I woke up and groggily continued taking several little breaks along the way. One
of these breaks involved being invited to stop at the roadside to share a cup of tea with a
family. I took another break in a small village called Tiguent. I asked an elder if I could
photograph the children who congregated around me and my bicycle. He gave me permis-
sionandoncemycameracameout,thedozensofchildrenjostledtogettheirpicturetaken.
When it was time for me leave, at least 70 children escorted me to the edge of the village
where we said good-bye to one other… a far cry from the Moroccan children out of Tangi-
ers who threw stones at me!
To Die For My Faith?
As the sun began to set, I started to look for a place to sleep. I came upon a small
settlement with several tents not too far from the road. I approached a group of young men
and asked to speak to the one in charge. They asked me why and I told them that I was
seeking permission to set up my tent near theirs. They said not to bother with my tent for I
was welcomed to stay in theirs.
The size of their tent was appropriate for a wedding reception. The floor was laden
with Saudi Arabian rugs and large plush cushions. My hosts, who were university students
ontheirsummerholidays,playedcards,smokedMarlborocigarettes,sangsongsanddrank
sweet tea. I befriended one student named Mohammed and in French we discussed reli-
gionandpolitics.Thewomenwereinanothertentandpreparedfoodustheentireevening.
Traysoflambandbreadwerebroughtoftentoourtentandsweetteaflowedlikeariver.At
one point, the women milked a camel and brought the milk in a large wooden bowl. Being
the guest, I drank first. It was warm and extremely thick…and oh, so good (I drank a bit
too much and would pay for it later…not financially speaking either).
The party abruptly stopped and silence came over the settlement. We turned to face
Mecca to say evening prayers. When prayers were completed, the party resumed with as
much intensity as before. At around 1:30 am, I couldn't stay awake any longer. I thanked
my hosts for their kindness and asked where I could sleep. They directed me to the back of
thetentwhereIjustlaidonacarpetwithapillowbeneathmyhead.Eventhoughtheywere
loud as ever, their fast-paced dialogue and laughter lulled me to sleep and I slept soundly
for …30 minutes.
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