Europe - The Lions on the Road: Cycling London to Cape Town - page 47

pulled up with me, and after a small dinner I fell asleep. Unfortunately, the noise from the
whizzing cars didn't make for a restful night.
The next day was like the one before, quite uneventful except for a short climb. I
ate lunch in Valdepenas and moved on. The highway I was on, the NIV E5, split into two
directions. One of which went along the canyon floor and the other climbed to an altitude
of 742m. I took the high road and as I climbed, the view below consisting of jagged cliffs
with sporadic vegetation. The cycling itself was quite easy for the wind was on my back. I
tooknumerousbreaksandreadalot.TherewasnorealplacetoprovideshadesoIusedmy
umbrella and my desert cap to give me protection from the sun. I passed on the outskirts
of Bailen and then stopped at Andujar. I found a hotel and quickly washed my clothes by
hand. I eventually went to bed at 1:00 am but did not sleep well because my window was
facing the highway. All I heard were speeding vehicles the whole night.
After a light breakfast the next morning, I headed west to Cordoba. There were a
fewshortsclimbs,andagain,thewindwasmyally.Iquicklyarrivedinthetowncentreand
did some grocery shopping. I returned to the highway and ate lunch under a bridge which
was the only object around to offer me some shade.
ThirtyminutesafterIfinishedlunch,anambulanceflewby.Afewkilometresdown
the road, I came upon a three-car accident. All three cars had Moroccan licence plates and
goods were scattered on the highway. I found out later that this was a regular occurrence in
this part of Spain. Many Moroccans who visit load up their car with goods- and I do mean
load up. Imagine a family car with goods tied to its roof with just enough height to avoid
hitting an overpass. Some of the packing left much to be desired for many times I saw the
pile of goods on the roofs of the cars lean precariously to the side. The insane part of this
was that these drivers were passing each other and speeding to get to the ship to take them
back home. It was incredible to watch and terrifying to cycle next to.
Asthedaywounddown,Ibegantolookforabridgetosleepunder.Ifoundonejust
outside of Ecija. After buying some food in the town, I returned to the bridge but decided
to look for a better one (not sure what that meant.) I continued on my way to Sevilla for
another 14 kilometres to a town called La Luisiana. When I came across a hostel, I had a
change of heart and asked for the rate. I was 500 pesetas short and asked if it was possible
that I stay. The owner accepted and gave me a room. I had enough loose change to buy a
soft drink and spent my evening watching the locals mill about as I sat on the patio in the
warm evening air. The next day was Saturday and I had a growing suspicion that the banks
would be closed. With only 200 pesetas in my pocket, I decided to ration my remaining
food just in case I wouldn't be able to change any money until Monday.