Travel Reference
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ously poor condition and too much strain would break it, (b) I was slightly concerned that
the rounded metal clips in my free-wheel would slip out of gear if I pushed too hard, and
(c) the lioness (and others?) was not too far below me.
I made the executive decision to focus on mechanical safety because if the chain
or the free-wheel failed, I would be screwed in reaching the next village by nightfall. Not
to overstrain the bike's components, I didn't stand as I pedalled but remained seated all the
way up at an agonizingly slow pace. After a while in that seated position, my groin began
to numb up.Since Iwanted to keep moving forward at all times, when Idid take a break, it
was a walking break and I never just stayed to rest in one spot.
I finally made it to the top of the escarpment and continued on as hard as I could
with only one goal in mind: to keep increasing the distance between me and that tree. I
eventually arrived outside of Makuti by 5:00 p.m. and looked for a place to sleep. I came
across a building and knocked on its large formidable iron gate. The man who answered
was in a police uniform and the building I approached was a prison.
Ididn'tcare.Iquicklyaskedpermission ifIcouldsetupmytentintheprisoncom-
pound.IexplainedwhatIsawatthebottomoftheescarpmentandwantedhisgatebetween
me and the wildlife. The guard was extremely welcoming and opened the gate for me to
cycle in. Instead of setting up the tent, he suggested that I sleep indoors in the prisoners'
recreation room. After he locked the gate, we walked over together and I wheeled my bike
intotheroom. HeleftasIwassettingupmyairmattressandsleepingbagontopofalarge
table. I rationed the food I had with me and saved some of it to cover the next day's break-
fast. After writing in my journal I tucked myself in my sleeping bag ready to fall asleep.
At8:00p.m.,thedoorssuddenlyburstopenandthelightswereswitchedon.Allthe
prisoners flooded into the recreation room and sat in chairs facing the opposite corner of
where I was. Their eyes were glued on the guard as he unlocked the top portion of a large
cabinet that sat in the corner and turned on the TV. Thank God they ignored me for I was
only wearing underwear. I discreetly scrambled to put on a pair of trousers and eventually
sat up.
The room was totally silent as the program started. Together with the prisoners, we
watched Magnum P.I., a police drama from the 1980s starring Tom Selleck. When the pro-
gramwasover,theguardlockedupthecabinet andeveryonereturnedtotheircell tosleep.
I reopened my journal to write what just happened. One of my most adventurous first days
in a country ended with an exclamation mark. Welcome to Zimbabwe!
Ibeganthenextmorningatabout6:30a.m.Iatemyrationedfoodandwalkedover
to the gate to thank the guards for their kindness and pushed off. The terrain was not as
hilly and I made good distance before I took my first break at the 70 kilometre-to-go mark.
AsIrestedunderatree,twoGermans,cyclingintheoppositedirectionstoppedand
we swopped stories and information on what lied ahead. They continued on to Zambia as I
pushed ontothe capital. The climbs were getting shorter andquicker.By the 40kilometre-
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