Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Due to the incredible strain I put on my chain, I had to stop three times to fix a
broken link even though I was only cycling on the granny gear. After the third breakage,
I started to dismount whenever the route looked threatening and simply walked my bike.
It was the slowest progress I have ever had and as a result, I knew that I couldn't arrive at
Fontem my nightfall. Instead I found a smaller village that was not indicated on my map
and asked its chief if I could set up my tent.
He gave me permission and told me that I could stay in his “castle” instead. The
roomwascleanandafterbathing,Ijoinedoneofthechief'ssons,PrinceToqueyfordinner.
I struggled to stay awake and to politely converse with my host. There was a steady arrival
of food and I was afraid of offending him by not trying what was brought in even though I
just wanted to goto bed. Eventually he saw that Iwas dozing offand bid me a goodnight. I
don't remember falling asleep for I think I passed out as my head hit the pillow. By far this
was the most physically gruelling day I've had (so far.)
Iwokeupearlythenextmorningandfoundoutthatbreakfastwasnotbeingserved.
I remained quiet and before leaving, I gave the prince and his children a…you guessed
it…a Canadian pin.
Istartedat7:15a.m.towhatwouldprovetobeavery,very,verytryingday.Letme
putitthisway,thepreviousdaywasnothingcomparedtowhatIexperienced.Thissecond-
aryroadthatcutacrossthefoothillsofMt.Bamboutos,seemedtobeengineeredforanimal
caravans and not for vehicles. In a nutshell, the road was fucking insane. It was covered in
sharprocksandwassosteepthatattimes,IthoughtIwouldneedasafetyrope.Ihadnever
progressed so slowly. At several points, after cycling only a dozen metres (yes, a dozen),
I would need to rest. As I stood there on the side of the mountain catching my breath, the
local elderly women who were carrying massive packs walked by me in conversation as if
they were out for a stroll. My ego took a beating but I was quite humbled by their stamina.
I was further humbled by the kindness of strangers. During one stretch of road that
had me really digging in to push the bike upward, I had what I thought was a surge of un-
bridled strength. Pushing the bike became effortless. Only after I took several steps did I
realize that I was not alone. I turned around and saw three men directly behind me, two
were pushing my bike and the third was carrying the other two men's things. What I found
touching was that I hadn't even asked for help. They stayed with me until I crested the hill
and when I turned around to thank them, they were gone chatting away as they continued
on their journey.
As I stood on the hill looking ahead hoping to see a panoramic view, what lay
beforemewasdiscouraging.Expectingtoseeavalley,IwasexasperatedthatIhadanother
hill, higher and with an equally steep road. My energy was extremely low for I still hadn't
eaten breakfast and my food provisions consisted of one banana. As I sat there resting, I
strategizedmyascent.Idecidedtoeatmybananafirstandthenmadementalnotesonwere
to pause during my final assault. I took a deep breath and decided to move on.
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