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I left my bike with the guards at the armed gate and was escorted to the presbytery.
I met a young Polish priest and he informed me that mass was at 9:30 a.m. the next day.
I asked if it was possible for me to sleep somewhere in the presbytery and he said that it
would be very difficult for he would need permission from the president himself, then se-
curity clearance from the police and so on. I understood and told him that I would see him
at mass the next day.
I left the basilica in pouring rain and came upon the cathedral in the town. There I
went to mass and after which I asked the priest if I could sleep there. Without hesitation,
he gave me a guest room and after a quick shower, I went into the centre of the town to
eat my birthday dinner. I over indulged and looking back, it was kind of gross what I ate:
a buttered loaf of bread, chocolate covered strawberry wafers, 2 Cokes, chocolate pudding
withpeanuts,8bananas(small mindyou),spaghetti andcoffee…inthatorder!AsIleftthe
store/restaurant, I watched my birthday parade (not really for me) which showcased mil-
itary personnel, girl scouts, and police motorcycles. I returned to my room after doubling
my weight in consumed food and said prayers of thanks. Just before I fell asleep, I quickly
checked my map to see my completed distance and was surprised that I did 141 kilometres
on one gear!!!
I woke up the next morning quite early and walked to mass in the basilica. I arrived
before 9 a.m. thinking that the mass started at 9:30. It started at 10:30. I stayed inside and
walked aroundadmiring its architecture. The detail inthe stain glass windowsandthe ceil-
ing were quite extraordinary. The oak pews had air vents built in for the air conditioning
and all the pews had plush velvet cushions. The interior floor was adorned with marble.
The main doors were massive and almost seemed impenetrable. I found out later that most
of the building material and skilled labour were imported from Europe, and did not utilize
the local artisans at all.
As the starting time for mass neared, I found myself a seat behind the reserved
pews. There was a steady stream of dignitaries arriving who were then ushered to their re-
servedseatsatthefront.Itseemedmoreofasocialgatheringthanaplaceofworship.They
were loud and ambivalent that people around them were praying. Then, low and behold a
flood of reporters and cameramen arrived and in the centre of the fray was President Félix
Houphouët-Boigny himself. They even photographed me as I received communion and as
I knelt down to reflect. So…I scowled at many of them (I doubt they used my photo in
the paper.) During the homily, I lost count on how many times the speaker said “Monsieur
President.” Well, technically, he paid for the basilica with his 'own money' so why not?
The mass itself was exciting with two great choirs and a percussion ensemble.
After mass, I met up with the Polish priest that I met the day before and he invited
me to lunch. Afterward, I returned to the basilica to say the Rosary and the Stations of the
Cross outside. Then I wandered into town just in time to see a motorcade whiz into the
President'sofficialresidence.Itisfamedforhavingamoatfilledwithcrocodileswhichare
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