Senegal - The Lions on the Road: Cycling London to Cape Town - page 103

I carefully cycled toward a car stuck in the mud. The passenger, a lady dressed
in fine African clothing, chatted with me for a couple of minutes and when I asked, she
changed my final 1,000 CFA to 3,000 Guinean francs.
Horse Flies From Hell
As I continued along this road, my concentration became more intense. The condi-
tions worsened and I had to be careful not to fall into the innumerable puddles. I passed
a three-truck convoy that had stopped for the lead truck was lodged in a rut…at a 30º-40º
angle! I regret that I didn't take a photo but there was a reason: the swarms of horse flies.
Thank God I had my mosquito head-net on. There were at least 15-20 flies sitting on it
searching for an opening to taste my flesh. However, they did manage to bite the backs
of my hands (through my cycle gloves!) The biting occurred so frequently that, without
looking down, I rhythmically slapped them off with the opposite hand once every second.
I don't think I have ever sworn so much in my life….especially at insects. Man, did I wish
them a painful death.
As I swore, two local cyclists sped by me unfazed by the flies. I watched them in-
tently and was fascinated as they weaved around the puddles like a pair of dancers never
slowing down or getting their bikes wet. I took their lead and did the same. My pace
quickened and the flies became less of a nuisance.
Which is the Smarter Species?
Since the road was on the western edge of the Niokolo Koba National Park, I en-
countered lots of monkeys on the side of the road. As I 'danced' around the puddles, the
monkeys would quietly retreat into the forest until I passed. On a few occasions, troops of