Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Introduction
Slowly, an overloaded and decrepit Zimbabwean pick-up truck made its way north
totheZambianborder.ThevehiclecoastedtoastopasitsoccupantsstaredatmeasIcycled
toward them. With a look of utter disbelief, the driver waved his hands frantically for me to
stop. I came alongside the pick-up and greeted the two men.
“Where are you going?” the driver asked.
“To Harare,” I replied. There was a short, almost awkward, silence and then they
broke into laughter.
The driver shook his head and ended our conversation with the most terrifying state-
ment, “Listen, there are lions onthe roadahead near the escarpment. Wait foratruck totake
you to the top [of the escarpment.]”
“Fuck-off,” I thought. Was he joking…a sort of twisted local humour that was used
on foreign cyclists? Or was he simply giving me a warning? I opted on the side of caution
and waited under a tree for a truck to drive by. I waited...and waited…and waited. There
were no vehicles heading to Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe.
Ihadtoconsidermyoptions.Ononehand,Ihadmytentandenoughfoodandwater
for at least three days. On the other hand, (a) my tent was no match to sharp claws, (b) there
wasn't a settlement nearby where I could take refuge, (c) I didn't carry a weapon for protec-
tion AND (d) if I didn't decide quickly, all animals gets hungry over time.
It is said that the hardest part of any journey is the first six inches. That is, the dis-
tance between your ears that contains grey matter used for making decisions. Unsure of
myself, I decided to press ahead. However, to get the bicycle in a forward motion was a dif-
ferent story. It was like pushing down on concrete with two willow twigs- my legs felt like
gelatine. I was still torn between cycling and hiding.
I crossed to the other side of the road (I wasn't sure why) and ever so slowly began
to get the bike moving. I cautiously cycled for about ten kilometres trying to anticipate
a wild animal leaping at me from either side of the road. As my pace (and my praying)
quickened…my eyes transfixed on both sides of the road ahead.
As I neared the foot of the escarpment, suddenly, I hit my brakes and came to a
frozen stop.
