Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Portoviejo
Accessible from Quito in the Andes and Guayaquil to the south, the
provincial capital of Portoviejo, with over 150,000 inhabitants, is one
of the larger commercial cities in Ecuador. It does not offer much for
the traveler - unless dodging traffic and breathing polluted air is
your idea of fun - although it may be a stopping point between coastal
destinations or the Andes and the coast.
The South Coast: Puerto López
to the Santa Elena Peninsula
Puerto López
The next major coastal town south of Manta and joining the highway
is Puerto López. This once-sleepy fishing town is becoming popular as
a home base for local nature excursions along the coast and into
Machalilla National Park, as well as for whale-watching and island
excursions. It's also a great place to soak up the local fishing culture
as you stroll along the shore. Every morning the beach buzzes with
activity as men return with the catch of the day. If you hang out long
enough, you're sure to be invited to join in a game of beach soccer.
There are also a few open-air restaurants, basic accommodations,
and tour operators near the main road from the coastal highway to
the beach and along the Malecón, or waterfront street, itself.
Montañita
Montañita is a small coastal fishing village that has become increas-
ingly popular with the beach-going crowd. It has a reputation as the
best surfing spot in the country and hosts competitions throughout
the year, especially from January through May. Indeed, the surf can
be pretty good, but the strong currents and undertow can be a hazard,
as can the stingrays close to shore. Despite these apparent draw-
backs, Montañita is a destination for surf bums and beach parties.
Just a few years ago there was a long and sandy beach in front of the
village, but the last El Niñowiped it out, at least for the time being.
Montañita is less than 35 miles south of Puerto López, and is also ac-
cessible along the coastal highway from La Libertad in the south. In
Montañita, ask at the gringo hotels where to rent a surfboard and
take surf lessons. RandyHood, aCalifornia surfer gone local, is a good
contact through the Casa del Sol (see page 297). BajaMontañita is the
area just north of the main village along the cliffs, offering the best
surf and the most recent development.
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