Western Slopes to the Pacific Coast - Adventure Guide to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands - page 265

throw from the beach in Las Palmas, the suburb just north of
Esmeraldas. In fact, Las Palmas is the only area worth staying or
walking around. The comfortable units include balconies, kitchen-
ettes, air-conditioning, and private baths. There is a Jacuzzi and
sauna, as well as a small pool. Guests can enjoy tastymeals served up
at the restaurant. $-$$

A less-expensive alternative a bit closer to downtown is the Hotel
Cayapas , located on Av. Kennedy and Valdez,

6-711-022, fax 6-
721-320. In addition to a garden setting with a nice atmosphere, the
hotel's comfortable rooms include hot-water baths and air-
conditioning. Its excellent seafood restaurant is also worth checking
out, even if you're not staying here. For some, this is a prime location -
close enough to downtown without being amid all the madness of the
city center. $

The only other decent option in the city is the Hotel del Mar ,atthe
beach end of Av. Kennedy,

6-723-708 or 6-713-910. The quality of
the rooms varies, but some have ocean views and air-conditioning. $

North of Esmeraldas

To the north along the coast and less than 10 miles from Esmeraldas
in the tiny village of Camarones is Hostería La Fragata ,

6-701-
038, 6-729-001, or 6-584-601. This is the place to stay if you need an
overnight near Esmeraldas, but prefer coastal solitude to the city. Re-
lax and enjoy comfortable cabañas and a delicious seafood dinner on a
bluff overlooking the ocean. Half of the village is usually down on the
beach, bargaining over the fresh catch of the day. The sunset views
from the restaurant are wonderful, and Lucho, the friendly and en-
thusiastic owner, will be happy to sit down and chat with you. La
Fragata, which can accommodate up to 30 people, has shared rooms
with bunk beds, private rooms, and a suite complete with a living
area and kitchen suitable for a family or several people. It also offers
tours on the adjacent land that include swimming, hiking, fishing,
and learning about the local agricultural efforts. $ per person.

Continuing northeast to the small town of Río Verde, the Swiss-
owned Cabañas Pura Vida (on the main road just before town) offer
another tranquil setting, with an ocean view and often a wonderful
breeze. Amenities range from simple double rooms to cabañas on the
beach, a TV/game room and a Jacuzzi. The laid-back and friendly
staff is often floating about the comfortable open-air dining area and
will be more than happy to point you toward the local weekend danc-
ing festivities. The cabañas are recommended, though they are a bit